Chalki Island, Greece.
Places to stay are limited, although slowly increasing. The Captain’s House hotel (T. 22460 45201; captainshouse@ath.forthnet. gr), open generally May–late Oct, is a charming and hos pitable home with garden, set back from the harbour a little east of the main church. For longer stays, -Villa Praxithea (T. 22410 70172 or 6972 427.272; www.villapraxithea. com), an elegant house on the waterfront sensitively restored by the owner-architect into furnished apartments, is delightful and much to be recommended.