By air: Ikaria now has a small airport at the eastern tip of the island, connected to Athens by a mid-afternoon flight every day, except on Mondays: an airport transfer bus connects flights with Ag. Kirykos 11 km away.
By boat: Ferries between Piraeus and Samos serve both of the island"s two ports – Evdilos, on the north coast, almost daily, by either fast boat (5 hours, summer only, from Piraeus) or slow (8-9 hours, year-round); and Aghios Kirykos, on the south coast, with 3 connections a week on the Samos-Piraeus route.
The F/B Samos Spirit also stops at Ag. Kirykos on its way between Samos and Fourni 3 times a week;
and in the summer there are fast, Flying Dolphin hydrofoil connections (1 hour) to and from Pythagoreio on Samos, 4 times weekly, dropping to 2 weekly for the half-season months of April, May, September and October.
Caïques leave Ag.Kirykos most afternoons during the summer for Fourni, and on Mon, Wed and Fri for Manganitis and Karkinagri, at the western extremity of the island.
The island’s nicest hotels are not to be found in either of the ports.
At Therma, the Agriolykos Pension (T. 22433 & 22383; www.island-Ikaria. com/hotels/agriolykos.asp), very quiet and set in a delight ful garden of tamarisks with wide views, is at the top of a flight of steps above the north end of the bay. Rooms are small and simple, but have air conditioning. (Note: access is only by foot, and bags will need to be carried up to the hotel.)
In Therma town, the Anthemis Hotel (T. 22750 23156 & 23377) is simple with adequate rooms, and has helpful and friendly owners. Both hotels are inexpensive.
The island’s smarter hotels are mostly in the area of Armenistìs: the Hotel Erofili Beach (T. 22750 71058-9; www.erofili.gr : upper price range) has large, comfortable, and well appointed rooms overlooking the sea front and the pool: it is a good hotel, but the breakfast is somewhat disappointing and the reception decidedly cool.
Just outside Armenistìs, on the way to Nas is the charming Hotel Daidalos (T. 22750 71390-2), looking west out to sea:
next door to it, and of equivalent standard but more old-fashioned, is the Cavos Bay Hotel (T. 22750 71381-3; www.cavosbay.com.gr ). Both of the above are in the medium price range. Those seeking real peace and quiet might explore Tzamoudakis Rooms in remote Karkinagri (T. 22750 91217 & 91327).
For a variety of local and traditional dishes always freshly prepared, Christos Chazàlas"s Taverna "To tzaki", in Glaredo (2 km west of Aghios Kirykos) is much to be recommended; in Aghios Kirykos itself, the tiny Taverna Klimataria, under a vine pergola, a couple of blocks in from the harbour, serves good soups and oven dishes, and is justly favoured by locals for its good value. There are several good tavernas at Kato Raches overlook the site at Nas: Taverna "O Nas" has the best view, but the food is more imaginative and homemade in character at Anna"s Taverna. In Karkinagri, the fresh fish is generally excellent at Perkas Restaurant.
Ikaría: area 255 sq.km;
perimeter 107 km;
resident population 8354;
maximum altitude 1037 m.
Port Authorities: Aghios Kirykos T. 22750 22207,
Evdilos T. 22750 31007.
Travel and information: Municipality of Aghios Kirykos T. 22750 24047;
Nas Travel, T. 22750 71396.