ALONNISOS



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Alonnisos - AROUND THE ISLAND - from Patitiri to the West Coast

From Patitiri to the West Coast

Patiti­ri is the westernmost of a series of three intimate coves in the protected southeast corner of the island: its area of habitation now spreads east behind Rousoum Bay (the next cove east), and incorporates the separate neighbourhood of Votsi (2km) beyond, named after Admiral Nikolaos Votsis (1877–1931), who used Alonnisos as a naval base during the Balkan Wars. A kilometre to the north of Votsi and to the left of the main road is the International Academy of Classical Homeopathy, founded and supervised by a widely published and respected ho meopathic practitioner and theorist, George Vithoulkas (b. 1932). A little way to its west, ruined architectural fragments mark the site of Aghios Andreas, one of the two Early Christian churches which have been located so far on Alonnisos.
   In the valley north of Votsi is the island’s most abundant spring, Mega Nero (turning to north off main road, 2.1km from Patiti­ri waterfront). Beyond the springs a track leads 1.5km across the width of the island to the small bay of Tsoukalia on the generally less protected north coast. A windmill (private) has been reconstructed in the bay.

On the east slope of Tsoukalia Bay are the vestigial remains of an ancient installation, partially buried in the pine woods. There is a thick scatter of ancient potsherds (al though in places mixed with modern) at the base of the hill. This was the site of a substantial wine-making installation of the Classical and Hellenistic periods, with associated pottery workshops producing the amphorae for transportation. (The name ‘tsoukalia’ means ‘pots’ in modern Greek.) It is here that a number of amphora handles, stamped with the legend ‘IKION’ have been found, confirming the ancient name of the island as Ikos. The rock-cut pool in the bed of the torrent behind the bay was also probably worked and enlarged in Antiquity.

The right-hand branch off the main track, 1km before the Bay of Tsoukalia, leads north and slightly east for a further 1.5km, at which point a narrow path continues a further 400m to the hermitage chapel of the Aghii Anargyri—possibly founded as early as the 15th century— now solitary, without its surrounding cells, on a wooded cliff overlooking the sea. The minute square interior is surmounted by a low cupola, tiled in schist; in the masonry of the corners are immured terracotta pots, ostensibly to emphasise the acoustics. In the hills to south and to east are more springs; below are the beautiful coves of Tourkoneri and Megali Ammos, which are accessible by foot. On the summit of the steep hill, due east of the latter are the remains of the Hellenistic watchtower of Kastraki.


Alonnisos Island is part of the Sporades Island Group, Greece.


access

Alonnisos Island, the Sporades.

By boat: There is no direct ferry route from Athens to Alonnisos. Services are from Volos or Aghios Konstantinos (closer to Athens): by car ferry (6 hours) daily from Volos, and five times weekly from Aghios Konstantinos. The island is also connected by rapid hydrofoil service (Flying Dolphin) in 2 hrs 30 mins from both of the above ports with varying frequency throughout the year. All serv ices to the island stop in Skiathos and Skopelos en route.
In the summer months, the hydrofoil connection is more frequent and the network extends to include Thessaloniki to the north and Kymi and other destinations on Euboea to the south.
Access to the outlying islands in the Marine Park (with the exception of Pipéri which is closed to ordinary visits) can be arranged with a boat opera tor in Patitíri: there are boats of varying size—the M/V "Gorgona" (Ikos Travel, details above); "Plantiri" (Alonnisos Travel, T. 24240 65188); and the smaller "Stella".

Alonnisos Travel Guide

beaches

Alonnisos Island, the Sporades.

Tourkoneri
Megali Ammos

Alonnisos Travel Guide

eating

Alonnisos Island, the Sporades.

A good place to sample the island's traditional, spiral tyropitta called striphtiko is at the taverna To Paradosiako at Steni Vala where they are freshly and delicately made along with a variety of good fish dishes, and where fresh wine from the island is served in the late spring.

Alonnisos Travel Guide

further reading

Alonnisos Island, the Sporades.

Ὰνω Μαγνὴτον Νησοὶ, Kostas Mavrikis, Alonnisos 1997 (currently only in Greek), is a comprehensive historical study of the island and its waters.
Walking on Alonnisos is a popular pastime. The following knowledgeable and informative guide can be of help: Alonnisos Through the Souls of your Feet, Chris Browne, 2008 (available through www.alonnisoswalks. co.uk). For information on the North Sporades Marine Park, see: www.alonissos park.gr

Alonnisos Travel Guide

lodging

Alonnisos Island, the Sporades.

Chora is a cooler, quieter and more panoramic place to stay than the port: Fantasia House (T. 24240 65186), to the left as you approach the village, is attractive and simple.
In Patitíri, the Hotel Haravgi (T. 24240 65090, fax 65189) is comfortable and pleasant, and open most of the year. There are many room or studio rental solutions on the island, which can be found at www. alonissos.gr.

Alonnisos Travel Guide

museums

Alonnisos Island, the Sporades.

Kostas and Angelas Mavriki Museum

Alonnisos Travel Guide

practical info

Alonnisos Island, the Sporades.

370 05 Alonnisos (sometimes written Alónissos), also referred to by its Mediaeval name‘Chelidromi(a)’ (and a current local variant, ‘Liadromia’): area 65sq. km; perimeter 81km; resident population 2399; max. altitude 475 m. Port Authority: T. 24240 65595. Travel information both for Alonnisos and for visits to the outlying islands: Ikos Travel (T. 24240 65320, fax 65321, www.ikostravel.com)

Alonnisos Travel Guide

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