ANAPHI



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Anaphi - West of Chora

West of Chora
The dry landscape to the west of Chora appears capable of sustaining only breaks of prickly-pear in the creases where water accumulates. But the many traditional, rural dwellings (now mostly abandoned) suggest that the land has rendered a living for generations through animal husbandry and a limited cultivation of grain. The stone farm stead, or katoiki­a, is a particular feature of the Anaphi landscape, and is different from those on other Cycladic islands. It generally comprises several buildings, grouped beside a threshing floor: a small dwelling, an oven, animal pens, a storage barn etc. The low rectangular profile is always broken by the surprisingly large baking-ovens which rise above the roof-level like truncated cones. The roofs of the buildings are flat: the rafters are covered with canes, packed and sealed with seaweed and mud, and then covered with a scattering of small, flat stones.
   After Kameni Langada (2.5km), the road west of Chora rises sharply to a curve where it levels out with wide views: due south, above the coast, is visible a long, low katoiki­a, about twenty five minutes by foot from the road. This is Pyrgi­, where the main body of the building complex is formed by the massive base of a Hellenistic farmstead measuring about nine and a half metres square, built up in courses of irregular rectangular blocks of the native stone. Although the position is panoramic, with Mount Prophitis Elias on Santorini clearly visible in front, the lack of fallen masonry would suggest that this was never a higher structure or watchtower, but a principally agri cultural building protecting and surveying the cultivated uplands of the west of the island. This area may have been much more fertile in antiquity. Today the only outbreak of fertility is at Vaghia (3.5km), where a spring has unex pectedly fostered stands of reeds and a small, vivid band of cultivation.


Anaphi or Anafi Island is part of the Cyclades Island Group, Greece.


access

Anaphi of Anafi Island, Greece.

Anaphi is at the end of the line for two ferry routes from Athens:

F/B Panaghia Tinou, which leaves Lavrion for Anaphi twice-weekly, via Syros, Naxos and Santorini, with stops at the lesser islands en route;

and F/B Romilda which leaves from Piraeus twice-weekly stopping at the same islands.

F/B Arsinoe connects Anaphi with Santorini three times weekly.

The island has no taxi.

Anafi or Anaphi Travel Guide

eating

Anaphi of Anafi Island, Greece.

To Steki in Chora is lively and welcoming, with a good selection of salads and meats.

For fish, Liotrivi Café is perhaps a slightly better option.

Anafi or Anaphi Travel Guide

further reading

Anaphi of Anafi Island, Greece.

Anafi or Anaphi Travel Guide

lodging

Anaphi of Anafi Island, Greece.

Lodging is not plentiful on Anaphi. The most comfortable option on the island is Villa Apollon (T.22860 61348; www.apollonvilla.gr), overlooking Kleisidi Bay, not far from the harbour.

Ta Plagia (T.22860 61308; www. taplagia.gr) in Chora offers pleasant and panoramic, self-catering studios.

A complete list of rooms avail able for rent in Chora can be found on www.anaphi.gr

Anafi or Anaphi Travel Guide

practical info

Anaphi of Anafi Island, Greece.

Anafi or Anaphi Travel Guide

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