CHIOS



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Chios - Chios town and the Kampos area - The Panaghia Krina

The Panaghia Krina

(The church, currently finishing a long restoration-programme is in a solitary location, signposted, mid-way between Sklavia and Vavi­li.)

Sophisticated in design and beautifully decorated with blind arches and lively brick patterns on the exterior and with paintings inside, this is a church close in date and in architectural conception to Nea Moni. It appears to have been a 12th century Constantinopolitan commission, donated by two members of the Imperial Court, Eustathius Codratos and Irene Doucaina Pagomene—though both the reason for its commission and the remote setting remain unclear. The presence of pagan and Early Christian spolia in the outer belfry-wall, the threshold, and beside the entrance of the narthex (column bases, fragments of cornice and a frieze with garlanded bucrania etc.), suggests preceding buildings, going perhaps as far back as a pagan shrine, on this spot. From outside, the similarities to Nea Moni are clear: the dynamic profile—a steep drum and cupola over the sanctuary with another, smaller dome over the narthex; the materials and brick patterns (especially the decorated lunette over the narthex entrance); and the long linear axis preceding the naos , through an exonarthex (18th century) and a transverse narthex (12th century). Once inside, the dignified and luminous octagonal naos is even more redolent of Nea Moni.
   It is from this church that the two series of wall paintings exhibited in Chios (the 14th century paintings from the cupola, in Palazzo Giustiniani, and the upper layer of 18th century paintings from the naos , in the Byzantine Museum: see pp. 27–29) have been removed so as to reveal the original 12th century paintings which now decorate the main area and which are of a quality which suggests the hand of an artist from Constantinople. Some small areas of the upper layer of 18th century paintings by Michael Chomatzas (1734) are preserved—of particular note, the allegorical scene to the left of the passage between the narthex and the naos , depicting an extravagantly dressed merchant holding a naked, allegorical figure by the hair, whose clearly urgent meaning remains nonetheless obscure.
  A little more than a kilometre south from Panaghia Krina, towards Sklavia, standing to the east of the road in the midst of a landscape densely covered with olive, mulberry and cypress, is a large corbelled Genoese pyrgos dating from the 15th/16th century. This is a good example of the kind of building, mentioned above, which formed the nucleus of the private estates of the Kampos area and which were often replaced by, or incorporated into, the later villas that survive in greater numbers today.


Chios Island is part of the Northern Aegean Island group
Chios town and the Kampos area. The Panaghia Krina.


Random information you might what to know about Chios Island
Mastic tree and products
Medieval Genoese watchtowers

 

access

Chios Island, Greece.

By air: Domestic flights from Athens, three times daily with Olympic Air and twice daily with Aegean Airlines, serve Chios throughout the year. Five days a week there are Olympic Air connections with Thessaloniki, including a twice weekly local, Eastern Aegean route, from Thessaloniki to Rhodes , via Lemnos, Mytilini and (once a week only) Samos . The airport is 3km from the centre of Chios town.
By boat: The principal route—Piraeus, Chios, Mytilini— is served by Hellenic Seaways, with a daily 12.30 departure from Piraeus, arriving Chios at 7pm, continuing to Mytilini, and returning to Piraeus overnight. NEL Lines run three times weekly along the route from/to Samos to the south, and Mytilini, Lemnos, and Kavala, to the north. Smaller ferry-boats connect Chios with Psará (5 times weekly), and Oinousses (6 times weekly). Crossings to Turkey (Çeşme) run almost daily during the summer season (Easter–mid-October); thereafter much more infrequently.

Chios Travel Guide

beaches

Chios Island, Greece.

 

Lithi Beach

Emboreios Mavros Gialos

Chios Travel Guide

eating

Chios Island, Greece.

Delightful, welcoming and with fresh, imaginative dishes and good bourekakia (lightly filled and fried filo-pastry rolls), is the (recently much enlarged) taverna, Roussikó, in Thymianá (just east of the main church in the village).
In the main town of Chios: both "Byzantinio" and "Elleniki Kouzina", on opposite sides of the crossing of Ralli and Roïdou Streets between the port and the public gardens, are favoured by locals for their clean environment, inexpensive home-cooking and well-prepared, workaday food; no frills and no atmosphere, just simple food.
Iakovou (evenings only), on Aghios Giorgios Street in the Kastro, has more atmosphere and offers a number of Asia Minor dishes.
Around the island: Lefteris at Pandoukiós (just south of Langada on the northeast coast), Tria Adelphia on Lithí Beach (central west Chios) and the taverna, Limani Meston in Liménas (southwest Chios), all offer excellent, fresh fishdishes in pleasant settings by the shore; while Markellos at Pitiós is well-known for meat and vegetable dishes of local cuisine; and Pheragides offers mezes in the delightful setting of a plane-shaded plateia at Kardámyla in northeastern Chios.
The cliffs and rocky coasts of Chios are home to an aromatic samphire ("kritamo") which is a distinctive element of its salads—always worth asking for, if it has not already been included in the mixture. Chios also has a tradition of excellence in oriental pastries; the quality of the baklava and other sweets made by the Amandier Patisserie in Livanou Street (south side of port) is worthy of any Ottoman pastry-chef.

Chios Travel Guide

further reading

Chios Island, Greece.

For social history of the important families of Chios and for the events of 1821/2 the following site contains much valuable information: www. christopherlong.co.uk/pub/ chiosinfo.html

Chios Travel Guide

lodging

Chios Island, Greece.

A number of the nicest places to stay on Chios are in Kampos, to the south of the main town, in the elegant stone villas which are so characteristic of the area. Two, that are close to one another, and run by different members of the same family, are particularly recommended:
-Perivoli (Argenti Street, T. 22710 31513, fax 32042, www.perivolihotel. gr), and -Perleas (Vitiadou Street, T. 22710 32217, fax 32364, www.perleas.gr). Both offer simple accommodation and attentive hospitality, moderately priced, in elegant villas with gardens. Although signposted, neither is easy to find: if you call ahead, you will be piloted, or collected. There is public transport to this area, but a rental vehicle is advised. In the centre of town, at the south end of the port, is the Hotel Kyma in a stone-built mansion looking onto the sea (T. 22710 44500, fax 44600, email: kyma@chi. forthnet.gr); the antiquity of the plumbing and bedroom furniture are more than compensated for by the friendliness and attentive hospitality of the owners and by the charm of the building.
A different experience is offered by Spilia Xenonas at Kardámyla above the northeast coast, 23km from the port (T. 22720 22933, fax 22823, www. spilia-chios.gr). This is a group of small, carefully restored, characteristic, stone cottages at the top of the village, with views towards the sea in the distance: a good homemade breakfast is provided. Wooden signposts guide you up to the cottages on steep stone paths through the village; any car will need to be left some distance below.

Chios Travel Guide

museums

Chios Island, Greece.

Archaeological Museum
Byzantine Museum
Folklore Museum

Chios Travel Guide

practical info

Chios Island, Greece.

821 00/02 & 822 00 Chios: area 841 sq. km; perimeter 213km; resident population 51,060; max. altitude 1,297m. Port Authority: T. 22710 44433. Travel and information: Municipal Tourist Office, T. 22710 44389, www.chiosonline.gr

Chios Travel Guide

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