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Euboea - Aedipsos, Orei, and the NE - Around Cape Artemision

Around Cape Artemision

East of Istiai­a the landscape becomes hilly and verdant. A branch to the left leads to the rural chapel of the Panaghia Dinious in a setting of great tranquillity. Not far beyond the turning, the road touches the shore again at the villages of Asmi­ni (23.5km) and Artemi­sio (28km) where there are good shaded beaches. The village of Artemi­sio and the cape to the west both take their name from a shoreside temple of Artemis Proseoia, mentioned by Plutarch in his Life of Themistocles (VIII, 1)—surrounded, he says, by a wall of a kind of marble that imparted the odour and colour of saffron when rubbed. Plutarch al ways has intriguing anecdotes to relate. The ruins of the small 6th century Byzantine complex of Aghios Giorgios on an isolated spur of the hills east of Pevki and west of Gouves probably lie over the site of the ancient temple. It was here, in the bay of Pevki, that the Greek fleet based it self during the three days of crucial fighting in the straits, in which they succeeded in blocking the advance of the fleet of Xerxes, early in the second Persian invasion of 480 bc.

The villages of Asmi­ni, Artemi­sio and Gouves (29.5km) have many attractive wooden-balconied houses, similar in style to the architecture of the area of Mount Pelion across the water to the north. The idiosyncratic Ottoman castle of Gouves, built in the early 1800s by Ibrahim AgŸa, which dominates the delightful village is constructed in a similar combination of materials with particularly fine wooden raftering. For a period it belonged to the Athenian poet, Giorgios Drosinis (1859–1951); it now constitutes a small and interesting Ethnographic Museum.
   The road climbs eastwards from Gouves and turns south at Agriovotano above Cape Artemision (2km of track leads down to the point). The cape not only gives its name to the important naval battle, but also to two of Greece’s most spectacular underwater archaeological finds.

In 1926 the left arm of a bronze statue was found at the site of an underwater shipwreck which had occurred in the 2nd century bc in the waters off Cape Artemision. The site was properly examined in 1928 and the rest of the magnificent, mid-5th century bc bronze statue of Zeus hurling a thunder bolt (sometimes erroneously referred to as an image of Poseidon) was salvaged from the water. The work has since been tentatively attributed to Kalamis. In the same year, the first fragments of another of the most famous bronzes of antiquity were also salvaged—the dramatic, Hellenistic group of the Horse and Jockey. A second search in 1936 found further fragments, sufficient to attempt a valid reconstruction of the group. The piece probably dates from the early 2nd century bc. Both pieces may have been produced on the mainland— at Corinth or Sicyon—and were being transported to Pergamon when they were wrecked off the cape here: both are now in the National Museum of Archaeology in Athens.


Euboea Island, Greece


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access

Euboea Island, Greece.

Access to the island is either by road via the Euripus bridges (1 hr from Athens, exit "Schimatari" from Athens/ Thessaloniki autoroute) or via short ferry crossings from Rafina (Attica) to Marmaris (c. every 3 hrs), Aghia Marina (Attica) to Nea Styra (c. every 2–3 hrs), Skala Oropou (Attica) to Eretria (every 30 mins), Arkitsa (Phthiotis) to Aedipsos (hourly), Glyfa (Phthiotis) to Agiokampos (hourly).
A hydrofoil service, four times weekly in the summer also links Chalcis with Limni, and Limni with Loutrá Aedipsoú and Aghios Konstantinos.

Euboea Travel Guide

eating

Euboea Island, Greece.

In Aedipsos, the central Mezedopoleion Armenizontas often has good, live rebetiko music.
In Limni, To Kyma (new), in a handsome stone house on the waterfront, is attentive both to service and to the freshness of its delightful variety of classic, Greek dishes. The well-established To Astro, at Katounia, remains good for fresh fish. To Neon, 1km below Stení, delightfully spread out beneath immemorial planes by a stream, specialises in local sausage and charcoal grilled vegetables and meats.
Geroplatanos in Myli, near Karystos, is somewhat similar in setting, with a good choice of dishes, especially at lunchtime on Sundays.
In Karystos itself, Kotsika Street is lined with simple, inexpensive street-eateries; these may look uninspiring, but do not underestimate the quality of meat and the freshness of the wine at the minuscule I Melissa, at no 27

Euboea Travel Guide

further reading

Euboea Island, Greece.

Sarah Wheeler, An Island Apart, 1992; Barbro Noel Baker, An Isle of Greece: The Noels in Euboea (2000), Archaeopress, Oxford; or from www.deniseharveypublisher.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

lodging

Euboea Island, Greece.

North Euboea. Spa hotels in Aedipsos: the luxurious Thermae Sylla Spa (T. 22260 60100, fax 22055, www. thermaesylla.gr) or the Avra Spa Hotel (T. 22260 22226, fax 23260).
Alternatively, the Hotel Aigli (T. 22260 22215, fax 24886), is a comfortable hotel, without spa facilities.
In Limni, choice is limited: the 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.

Central Euboea. At Steni, the Hotel Dirphys (T. 22280 51217) is tranquil and delight ful, but very basic. Chalcis is not an obvious choice to stay in but if necessary, the Paliria Hotel (T. 22210 28001, fax 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.
At Kymi the Hotel Corali (T. 22220 22212, fax 22002, www.coralihotel. gr), a little way outside the harbour, is modern and comfortable.

Southern Euboea.
At Karystos the Apollon Suites Hotel (T. 22240 22045, fax 22049 www.apollonsuiteshotel.com) is an Italian-run hotel on the beach, with large rooms to the eastern end of the town.  Hotel Plaza (T. 22270 31235, fax 31336), on the water front is quiet and simple, and currently represents the best option. Closer in to the centre is the Hotel Karystion (T. 22240 22391, fax 22727, www.karystion.gr) less spacious, but a little more modern and stylish, and with pleasant service.

Historic Villa Rentals For those seeking a luxurious base for a longer period (preferably in a small group so as to share the cost) these two historic houses are excel lent and elegant solutions: Villa Averoff at Kirinthos, (www.villa-averoff.com); and the Konaki at Prokopi (www. candili.gr).

Euboea Travel Guide

museums

Euboea Island, Greece.

Folklore Museum
Archaeological Museum

Euboea Travel Guide

other attractions

Euboea Island, Greece.

Drakospita
Thermal springs

Euboea Travel Guide

practical info

Euboea Island, Greece.

340 01-346 00 Evia, Evvia or Evvoia: area 3,661 sq.km; perimeter 729km; resident population 191,009; max. altitude 1743 m. Port Authorities: Agiokampos T. 22260 71228; Aedipsos T. 22260 22464; Chalcis T. 22210 22236; Eretria T. 22290 62201; Kymi T. 22220 22606; Nea Styra T. 22240 41266; Marmari T. 22240 31222. Information: T. 22210 82677, www.naevias.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

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