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Euboea - Around Limni and Prokopi: central northern Euboea - Around Kirinthos

Around Kirinthos

The main road to the south of the island climbs inland to the east from Limni: shortly before the watershed, amongst the trees to the left of the road, is the church of the Panaghia which, though much restored, is a 15th or 16th century foundation. A fragment of wall-painting survives underneath the outside steps at the southeast corner. There is evidence of anancient marble quarry on the crest of the hill at Mesopetri: running-drill and wedge cuts can be seen in the native rock about 80m east of the summit. Much of the fertile land to the south of the road between Myrtias and Kechries (10km) was part of the purchases made in the 19th century by the Noel family (see below); the village of Farakla (14km) is a good ex ample of the kind of planned settlement and stone farm buildings which they built and is architecturally of a piece with the main house at Prokopi. At Strofilia (13.5km) the Limni road joins the principal north/south road of the island. The town’s main church of Aghia Triada (1879), though not of architectural interest, possesses a remark able, painted wooden iconostasis, typical of a late 19th century vernacular style.
   The attractively wooded village of Kirinthos (18.5km) takes its name from nearby Ancient Kerinthos, although the village itself was only created in the 1830s around the stately Villa Averoff (see lodging p. 142) at its centre. The remains of Kerinthos are 5km to the east on the coast at ‘Kastri­’, close to the tiny resort of Krya Vrysi.

Ancient Kerinthos lies at the east end of the beach, beyond the fast-flowing Voudoros Stream, which narrows sufficiently by the sea to permit fording. Directly beyond this, a series of walls confront you, which were the western limit of the settlement—an outer enceinte in large, polygonal blocks whose masonry is that of the 6th century bc, with an inner wall constructed of smaller elements behind it. The site is oblong in shape and extends over three successive rises, ter minating at the eastern end in a natural precipice. The base of a small temple, oriented to the cardinal points, can be detected at the highest point above this eastern limit. The line of the fortifications running east along the north side is clear, with the base of a bastion clearly visible; to the south, the ruins (mostly walls of Hellenistic construction) are immersed in undergrowth which covers the slope down to a basin of fertile fields which would in antiquity have been a protected area of water, possibly used as a harbour and linked to the sea below the western walls of the city. The re mains of public buildings of the Hellenistic era, bordering a wide street, have been laid bare on the saddle between the central and western hills. The overall plan seems regular and oriented to the cardinal points, and therefore of Hippodamian inspiration. Kerinthos drew considerable wealth from the fertile land of its interior in the plain watered by the Kireas River. It figures in the Homeric catalogue of ships, and is mentioned by Strabo: early on, probably in the 5th century bc, it lost its independence to Histiaia.

Mandoudi (21km) stands in the low land at the mouth of the valley of the River Kireas, which nurtures several kilometres of plane-tree woods to the south. Three kilo metres south of Mandoudi, opposite the church of the Koimisis tis Theotokou, a small sign points east to the ‘Megalos Platanos’ (‘Great Plane’): 800m down the east side of the river is this vast and remarkable vegetable— perhaps one of the oldest plane-trees in Europe—now slowly dying.


Euboea Island, Greece


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access

Euboea Island, Greece.

Access to the island is either by road via the Euripus bridges (1 hr from Athens, exit "Schimatari" from Athens/ Thessaloniki autoroute) or via short ferry crossings from Rafina (Attica) to Marmaris (c. every 3 hrs), Aghia Marina (Attica) to Nea Styra (c. every 2–3 hrs), Skala Oropou (Attica) to Eretria (every 30 mins), Arkitsa (Phthiotis) to Aedipsos (hourly), Glyfa (Phthiotis) to Agiokampos (hourly).
A hydrofoil service, four times weekly in the summer also links Chalcis with Limni, and Limni with Loutrá Aedipsoú and Aghios Konstantinos.

Euboea Travel Guide

eating

Euboea Island, Greece.

In Aedipsos, the central Mezedopoleion Armenizontas often has good, live rebetiko music.
In Limni, To Kyma (new), in a handsome stone house on the waterfront, is attentive both to service and to the freshness of its delightful variety of classic, Greek dishes. The well-established To Astro, at Katounia, remains good for fresh fish. To Neon, 1km below Stení, delightfully spread out beneath immemorial planes by a stream, specialises in local sausage and charcoal grilled vegetables and meats.
Geroplatanos in Myli, near Karystos, is somewhat similar in setting, with a good choice of dishes, especially at lunchtime on Sundays.
In Karystos itself, Kotsika Street is lined with simple, inexpensive street-eateries; these may look uninspiring, but do not underestimate the quality of meat and the freshness of the wine at the minuscule I Melissa, at no 27

Euboea Travel Guide

further reading

Euboea Island, Greece.

Sarah Wheeler, An Island Apart, 1992; Barbro Noel Baker, An Isle of Greece: The Noels in Euboea (2000), Archaeopress, Oxford; or from www.deniseharveypublisher.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

lodging

Euboea Island, Greece.

North Euboea. Spa hotels in Aedipsos: the luxurious Thermae Sylla Spa (T. 22260 60100, fax 22055, www. thermaesylla.gr) or the Avra Spa Hotel (T. 22260 22226, fax 23260).
Alternatively, the Hotel Aigli (T. 22260 22215, fax 24886), is a comfortable hotel, without spa facilities.
In Limni, choice is limited: the 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.

Central Euboea. At Steni, the Hotel Dirphys (T. 22280 51217) is tranquil and delight ful, but very basic. Chalcis is not an obvious choice to stay in but if necessary, the Paliria Hotel (T. 22210 28001, fax 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.
At Kymi the Hotel Corali (T. 22220 22212, fax 22002, www.coralihotel. gr), a little way outside the harbour, is modern and comfortable.

Southern Euboea.
At Karystos the Apollon Suites Hotel (T. 22240 22045, fax 22049 www.apollonsuiteshotel.com) is an Italian-run hotel on the beach, with large rooms to the eastern end of the town.  Hotel Plaza (T. 22270 31235, fax 31336), on the water front is quiet and simple, and currently represents the best option. Closer in to the centre is the Hotel Karystion (T. 22240 22391, fax 22727, www.karystion.gr) less spacious, but a little more modern and stylish, and with pleasant service.

Historic Villa Rentals For those seeking a luxurious base for a longer period (preferably in a small group so as to share the cost) these two historic houses are excel lent and elegant solutions: Villa Averoff at Kirinthos, (www.villa-averoff.com); and the Konaki at Prokopi (www. candili.gr).

Euboea Travel Guide

museums

Euboea Island, Greece.

Folklore Museum
Archaeological Museum

Euboea Travel Guide

other attractions

Euboea Island, Greece.

Drakospita
Thermal springs

Euboea Travel Guide

practical info

Euboea Island, Greece.

340 01-346 00 Evia, Evvia or Evvoia: area 3,661 sq.km; perimeter 729km; resident population 191,009; max. altitude 1743 m. Port Authorities: Agiokampos T. 22260 71228; Aedipsos T. 22260 22464; Chalcis T. 22210 22236; Eretria T. 22290 62201; Kymi T. 22220 22606; Nea Styra T. 22240 41266; Marmari T. 22240 31222. Information: T. 22210 82677, www.naevias.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

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