EUBOEA



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Euboea - Chalcis, Eretria & Amarynthos - North of Chalcis

North of Chalcis

The main shore-road north from Chalcis leads through an unattractive commercial area which blends seamlessly with Nea Artaki. Just short of Nea Artaki (at 4km) a left turn leads down to the shore beside the promontory of Manika. The flat, projecting tongue of land—or island, as it was then—the gentle shoreline and fertile land behind, constitute a familiar configuration of geography for early settlers. Although there is little to see here, this was the site of an important Early Helladic settlement (3rd millennium bc), the finds from which are to be seen in the museum in Chalcis (Room 1). Archaeological examina tion has centred on the neck of the tongue of land, but the extension of the settlement spread considerably inland.
   At the junction in the road 11km from Chalcis, is the statue (1975) by Theodoros Papagiannis of Angelis Govi os, hero and general of the Greek Independence revolution, who was born in Limni, and is buried in Psachna (church of Aghios Ioannis). The road splits here between the twin settlements of Kastella and Psachna (13km). The right-hand branch passes through the centre of Psachna, 3km due north of which is the hill of Kastri­ crowned by a Venetian castle, and 5km northeast of which is the monastery of the Panaghia Makrimalis. From Kastella, the principal road continues towards the north of the island. After 3.5km a side-road heads east to the monastery of Aghios Ioannis Kalyvitis, dedicated to the 5th century Constantinopolitan saint, John Kalyvitis, the ‘hut dweller’.

The monastery buildings are new, but the catholicon is a small, freestanding, early 12th century church of consider able interest. Its upper areas have recently been restored, but the west door conserves its magnificent marble jambs, which are composed of four sections of * ancient entablature carved with an exquisite running frieze of palmettes. Other fragments, both ancient and Early Byzantine, are assembled in the area, some incorporated in the structure itself. The ‘cloisonne’ brick and stone-work in the church’s three apses is particularly beautiful.

Beyond the junction for the monastery, the road north begins its long climb towards Pagondas, Prokopi, Limni (62.5km) and the north of the island (see previous section), offering wide views back over the Euboean Channel and Chalcis.
   The road west from Kastella skirts the coast and heads towards the attractive village of Politika (20.5km), considered by some scholars to be the site of Ancient Aigai below the southeastern slope of the Mount Kandili massif. The skyline is dominated by a high 13th century Frankish tower whose south face incorporates several antique marble elements in the window-frames. The holes for fixing construction scaffolding are still clearly visible. Above the village is the monastery of the Peribleptos built around a small, domed, cruciform church originally constructed in the 11th century, though later rebuilt in the same form in the 17th century. Elements from the original structure are incorporated, such as the carved marble cornice over the west door. The interior is entirely decorated with 17th century wall-paintings of considerable character and interest, enlivened throughout by a brilliant red, minium pigment. The marble support of the iconostasis is also a good example of 17th century carving with elegant, Byzantine decorative motifs such as cypress, rosette and wreath.


Euboea Island, Greece


access

Euboea Island, Greece.

Access to the island is either by road via the Euripus bridges (1 hr from Athens, exit "Schimatari" from Athens/ Thessaloniki autoroute) or via short ferry crossings from Rafina (Attica) to Marmaris (c. every 3 hrs), Aghia Marina (Attica) to Nea Styra (c. every 2–3 hrs), Skala Oropou (Attica) to Eretria (every 30 mins), Arkitsa (Phthiotis) to Aedipsos (hourly), Glyfa (Phthiotis) to Agiokampos (hourly).
A hydrofoil service, four times weekly in the summer also links Chalcis with Limni, and Limni with Loutrá Aedipsoú and Aghios Konstantinos.

Euboea Travel Guide

eating

Euboea Island, Greece.

In Aedipsos, the central Mezedopoleion Armenizontas often has good, live rebetiko music.
In Limni, To Kyma (new), in a handsome stone house on the waterfront, is attentive both to service and to the freshness of its delightful variety of classic, Greek dishes. The well-established To Astro, at Katounia, remains good for fresh fish. To Neon, 1km below Stení, delightfully spread out beneath immemorial planes by a stream, specialises in local sausage and charcoal grilled vegetables and meats.
Geroplatanos in Myli, near Karystos, is somewhat similar in setting, with a good choice of dishes, especially at lunchtime on Sundays.
In Karystos itself, Kotsika Street is lined with simple, inexpensive street-eateries; these may look uninspiring, but do not underestimate the quality of meat and the freshness of the wine at the minuscule I Melissa, at no 27

Euboea Travel Guide

further reading

Euboea Island, Greece.

Sarah Wheeler, An Island Apart, 1992; Barbro Noel Baker, An Isle of Greece: The Noels in Euboea (2000), Archaeopress, Oxford; or from www.deniseharveypublisher.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

lodging

Euboea Island, Greece.

North Euboea. Spa hotels in Aedipsos: the luxurious Thermae Sylla Spa (T. 22260 60100, fax 22055, www. thermaesylla.gr) or the Avra Spa Hotel (T. 22260 22226, fax 23260).
Alternatively, the Hotel Aigli (T. 22260 22215, fax 24886), is a comfortable hotel, without spa facilities.
In Limni, choice is limited: the 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.

Central Euboea. At Steni, the Hotel Dirphys (T. 22280 51217) is tranquil and delight ful, but very basic. Chalcis is not an obvious choice to stay in but if necessary, the Paliria Hotel (T. 22210 28001, fax 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.
At Kymi the Hotel Corali (T. 22220 22212, fax 22002, www.coralihotel. gr), a little way outside the harbour, is modern and comfortable.

Southern Euboea.
At Karystos the Apollon Suites Hotel (T. 22240 22045, fax 22049 www.apollonsuiteshotel.com) is an Italian-run hotel on the beach, with large rooms to the eastern end of the town.  Hotel Plaza (T. 22270 31235, fax 31336), on the water front is quiet and simple, and currently represents the best option. Closer in to the centre is the Hotel Karystion (T. 22240 22391, fax 22727, www.karystion.gr) less spacious, but a little more modern and stylish, and with pleasant service.

Historic Villa Rentals For those seeking a luxurious base for a longer period (preferably in a small group so as to share the cost) these two historic houses are excel lent and elegant solutions: Villa Averoff at Kirinthos, (www.villa-averoff.com); and the Konaki at Prokopi (www. candili.gr).

Euboea Travel Guide

museums

Euboea Island, Greece.

Folklore Museum
Archaeological Museum

Euboea Travel Guide

other attractions

Euboea Island, Greece.

Drakospita
Thermal springs

Euboea Travel Guide

practical info

Euboea Island, Greece.

340 01-346 00 Evia, Evvia or Evvoia: area 3,661 sq.km; perimeter 729km; resident population 191,009; max. altitude 1743 m. Port Authorities: Agiokampos T. 22260 71228; Aedipsos T. 22260 22464; Chalcis T. 22210 22236; Eretria T. 22290 62201; Kymi T. 22220 22606; Nea Styra T. 22240 41266; Marmari T. 22240 31222. Information: T. 22210 82677, www.naevias.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

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