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Euboea - Chalcis, Eretria & Amarynthos - South from Chalcis

South from Chalcis

The road south leaves Chalcis through industrial out skirts between the shore and the hill of Vathrovouni, whose western shoulder, overlooking the water, was the acropolis of Ancient Chalcis. The rich and fertile Lelantine Plain, recalled in the Hymn to Apollo for its lush vine yards, begins just beyond. In the 8th and 7th centuries bc, the area was the subject of a deadly territorial rivalry between Chalcis and Eretria. The area’s value was also appreciated in later epochs and the landscape is punctuated with several Venetian towers and forts which combined to guard its agricultural activity and inhabitants, as well as protecting the southern approaches to Chalcis. At the centre of Vasiliko (6km) is a well-preserved tower; there are two more between the villages of Mitikas and Philla (8km); and a conspicuous castle above the latter, built on an ancient enceinte. The tower at Vasiliko was occupied by the Turks in 1470 during their siege of Negroponte.
   An interesting detour east can be made from Philla to the monastery of Aghios Giorgiosirma (11km), a handsome stone church founded in 1141.

The form of the church is a compact and well-proportioned example of 12th century Byzantine architecture, and the combined silhouette of the two domed structures (narthex and catholicon) in one complex is cadenced and pleasing. The surrounding courtyard contains abandoned ancient columns and some strikingly carved scroll volutes. Other fragments are incorporated in the church: the decorative anthemion of a grave-stele is embedded in the wall above the west door; another sits over the east window, where it is combined with Byzantine decorative elements in marble and fine brick-work which create a beautifully facetted ensemble. The domed narthex, which was probably added at a slightly later date, has darkened late-Byzantine wall-paints. It is separated from the main, undecorated catholicon by an intervening space and double-door. The cupola of the main church is supported on columns (three of which are ancient, and one fluted) with Ionic capitals. The unadorned, stone architecture of the interior is striking.


Euboea Island, Greece


access

Euboea Island, Greece.

Access to the island is either by road via the Euripus bridges (1 hr from Athens, exit "Schimatari" from Athens/ Thessaloniki autoroute) or via short ferry crossings from Rafina (Attica) to Marmaris (c. every 3 hrs), Aghia Marina (Attica) to Nea Styra (c. every 2–3 hrs), Skala Oropou (Attica) to Eretria (every 30 mins), Arkitsa (Phthiotis) to Aedipsos (hourly), Glyfa (Phthiotis) to Agiokampos (hourly).
A hydrofoil service, four times weekly in the summer also links Chalcis with Limni, and Limni with Loutrá Aedipsoú and Aghios Konstantinos.

Euboea Travel Guide

eating

Euboea Island, Greece.

In Aedipsos, the central Mezedopoleion Armenizontas often has good, live rebetiko music.
In Limni, To Kyma (new), in a handsome stone house on the waterfront, is attentive both to service and to the freshness of its delightful variety of classic, Greek dishes. The well-established To Astro, at Katounia, remains good for fresh fish. To Neon, 1km below Stení, delightfully spread out beneath immemorial planes by a stream, specialises in local sausage and charcoal grilled vegetables and meats.
Geroplatanos in Myli, near Karystos, is somewhat similar in setting, with a good choice of dishes, especially at lunchtime on Sundays.
In Karystos itself, Kotsika Street is lined with simple, inexpensive street-eateries; these may look uninspiring, but do not underestimate the quality of meat and the freshness of the wine at the minuscule I Melissa, at no 27

Euboea Travel Guide

further reading

Euboea Island, Greece.

Sarah Wheeler, An Island Apart, 1992; Barbro Noel Baker, An Isle of Greece: The Noels in Euboea (2000), Archaeopress, Oxford; or from www.deniseharveypublisher.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

lodging

Euboea Island, Greece.

North Euboea. Spa hotels in Aedipsos: the luxurious Thermae Sylla Spa (T. 22260 60100, fax 22055, www. thermaesylla.gr) or the Avra Spa Hotel (T. 22260 22226, fax 23260).
Alternatively, the Hotel Aigli (T. 22260 22215, fax 24886), is a comfortable hotel, without spa facilities.
In Limni, choice is limited: the 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.

Central Euboea. At Steni, the Hotel Dirphys (T. 22280 51217) is tranquil and delight ful, but very basic. Chalcis is not an obvious choice to stay in but if necessary, the Paliria Hotel (T. 22210 28001, fax 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.
At Kymi the Hotel Corali (T. 22220 22212, fax 22002, www.coralihotel. gr), a little way outside the harbour, is modern and comfortable.

Southern Euboea.
At Karystos the Apollon Suites Hotel (T. 22240 22045, fax 22049 www.apollonsuiteshotel.com) is an Italian-run hotel on the beach, with large rooms to the eastern end of the town.  Hotel Plaza (T. 22270 31235, fax 31336), on the water front is quiet and simple, and currently represents the best option. Closer in to the centre is the Hotel Karystion (T. 22240 22391, fax 22727, www.karystion.gr) less spacious, but a little more modern and stylish, and with pleasant service.

Historic Villa Rentals For those seeking a luxurious base for a longer period (preferably in a small group so as to share the cost) these two historic houses are excel lent and elegant solutions: Villa Averoff at Kirinthos, (www.villa-averoff.com); and the Konaki at Prokopi (www. candili.gr).

Euboea Travel Guide

museums

Euboea Island, Greece.

Folklore Museum
Archaeological Museum

Euboea Travel Guide

other attractions

Euboea Island, Greece.

Drakospita
Thermal springs

Euboea Travel Guide

practical info

Euboea Island, Greece.

340 01-346 00 Evia, Evvia or Evvoia: area 3,661 sq.km; perimeter 729km; resident population 191,009; max. altitude 1743 m. Port Authorities: Agiokampos T. 22260 71228; Aedipsos T. 22260 22464; Chalcis T. 22210 22236; Eretria T. 22290 62201; Kymi T. 22220 22606; Nea Styra T. 22240 41266; Marmari T. 22240 31222. Information: T. 22210 82677, www.naevias.gr

Euboea Travel Guide

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