You are here: Home ￫ click here to EXPLORE Euboea ￫ Kymi & the central east of the island ￫ Lepoura to Aliveri
The long valley which stretched from the south coast of the island at Aliveri Bay up as far as Kymi on the north coast, was good agricultural land and formed one of the principal areas of interest and wealth for the Frankish settlers of the 13th century. For this reason their fortified towers are such a common feature of the landscape in this area. The biggest, and one of the oldest, of these Frank ish strongholds was the early 13th century ‘Rizokastro’ (33.6km), clearly visible on a hill 2km to the south of the main road, approximately half-way between Lepoura (29km) and Aliveri (36.5km). The remains consist of a well-preserved enceinte of walls surrounding a pre-existing tower. The castle was later fiercely contended be tween the Turks and Greek Independence fighters in the summer of 1823. Four kilometres due north of it, in the hilly area of the interior, is a church dedicated to Aghios Demetrios, but generally known as the ‘Kokkini Ekklesia’, or ‘Red Church’ because of the preponderance of red tiles in its masonry. (Best reached by the right turn (north) signed ‘Aghios Demetrios’, 1km east of the municipal limit of Aliveri. The road leads through olive groves and a functioning lignite and stone quarry; after 2.4km, the church is to the left, hidden, on a low hill.) The church exemplifies the 14th century delight in decorative tile patterns: a cross pattern at the east end and a half-moon over the door. An ancient offering-table with three shallow depressions and a fragment of an Ionic capital are incorporated in the west front, with other ancient elements included else where. There are vestiges of murals in the apsidal conch. The remains of a vaulted Mycenaean tomb can be seen, 3.2km northwest of Lepoura on the cross-country route to Gavalas, via Katakalou.
Euboea Island, Greece
Access to the island is either by road via the Euripus bridges (1 hr from Athens, exit "Schimatari" from Athens/ Thessaloniki autoroute) or via short ferry crossings from Rafina (Attica) to Marmaris (c. every 3 hrs), Aghia Marina (Attica) to Nea Styra (c. every 2–3 hrs), Skala Oropou (Attica) to Eretria (every 30 mins), Arkitsa (Phthiotis) to Aedipsos (hourly), Glyfa (Phthiotis) to Agiokampos (hourly).
A hydrofoil service, four times weekly in the summer also links Chalcis with Limni, and Limni with Loutrá Aedipsoú and Aghios Konstantinos.
In Aedipsos, the central Mezedopoleion Armenizontas often has good, live rebetiko music.
In Limni, To Kyma (new), in a handsome stone house on the waterfront, is attentive both to service and to the freshness of its delightful variety of classic, Greek dishes. The well-established To Astro, at Katounia, remains good for fresh fish. To Neon, 1km below Stení, delightfully spread out beneath immemorial planes by a stream, specialises in local sausage and charcoal grilled vegetables and meats.
Geroplatanos in Myli, near Karystos, is somewhat similar in setting, with a good choice of dishes, especially at lunchtime on Sundays.
In Karystos itself, Kotsika Street is lined with simple, inexpensive street-eateries; these may look uninspiring, but do not underestimate the quality of meat and the freshness of the wine at the minuscule I Melissa, at no 27
North Euboea. Spa hotels in Aedipsos: the luxurious Thermae Sylla Spa (T. 22260 60100, fax 22055, www. thermaesylla.gr) or the Avra Spa Hotel (T. 22260 22226, fax 23260).
Alternatively, the Hotel Aigli (T. 22260 22215, fax 24886), is a comfortable hotel, without spa facilities.
In Limni, choice is limited: the 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.
Central Euboea. At Steni, the Hotel Dirphys (T. 22280 51217) is tranquil and delight ful, but very basic. Chalcis is not an obvious choice to stay in but if necessary, the Paliria Hotel (T. 22210 28001, fax 81959), near the museum is a pleasant option.
At Kymi the Hotel Corali (T. 22220 22212, fax 22002, www.coralihotel. gr), a little way outside the harbour, is modern and comfortable.
At Karystos the Apollon Suites Hotel (T. 22240 22045, fax 22049 www.apollonsuiteshotel.com) is an Italian-run hotel on the beach, with large rooms to the eastern end of the town. Hotel Plaza (T. 22270 31235, fax 31336), on the water front is quiet and simple, and currently represents the best option. Closer in to the centre is the Hotel Karystion (T. 22240 22391, fax 22727, www.karystion.gr) less spacious, but a little more modern and stylish, and with pleasant service.
Historic Villa Rentals For those seeking a luxurious base for a longer period (preferably in a small group so as to share the cost) these two historic houses are excel lent and elegant solutions: Villa Averoff at Kirinthos, (www.villa-averoff.com); and the Konaki at Prokopi (www. candili.gr).
340 01-346 00 Evia, Evvia or Evvoia: area 3,661 sq.km; perimeter 729km; resident population 191,009; max. altitude 1743 m. Port Authorities: Agiokampos T. 22260 71228; Aedipsos T. 22260 22464; Chalcis T. 22210 22236; Eretria T. 22290 62201; Kymi T. 22220 22606; Nea Styra T. 22240 41266; Marmari T. 22240 31222. Information: T. 22210 82677, www.naevias.gr