Ikaria – Aghios Kirykos and the South coast – general

Aghios Kirykos and the South Coast of the island
(For distances, Aghios Ki­rykos = 0.0 km)
Aghios Ki­rykos—referred to locally just as ‘Aghios’—is a pleasant and business-like port, named after the Eastern Church’s youngest martyr (aged three) (see p. 165). Not be clearly centred around the sweep of a harbour-front, or gathered around a shaded plateia, or even grouped deferentially in the shadow of its principal church as island choras traditionally are, its centre is hard to locate. To the west it spreads into a grid of residential streets, dotted randomly with municipal buildings (the Demarcheion, the museum, etc.), and to the north its more functional quarter blends into other, older villages and settlements that climb the slopes of the mountain behind, and which partially occupy the site of the ancient settlement. The harbour itself is man-made, but it avails little in a strong southerly wind. The outer mole is dominated by a 7m tall bronze monument to Icarus erected by a local sculptor. It is difficult to know from which angle it is best to read this awkward piece, or what exactly it signifies. What remains of the old quarter of the town is to be found in a network of narrow streets just inland and west of the port.
   The municipality’s Archaeological Museum is currently closed for relocation (T. 22750 24001 for information). The principal exhibit of the small collection is a fine early 5th century bc inscribed marble relief from Kataphygi, carved by a certain ‘Platthis’ or ‘Palion’ and depicting a family performing rituals before a seated deity nursing an infant.