Ikaria Island, Greece.
The island’s nicest hotels are not to be found in either of the ports.
At Therma, the Agriolykos Pension (T. 22433 & 22383; www.island-Ikaria. com/hotels/agriolykos.asp), very quiet and set in a delight ful garden of tamarisks with wide views, is at the top of a flight of steps above the north end of the bay. Rooms are small and simple, but have air conditioning. (Note: access is only by foot, and bags will need to be carried up to the hotel.)
In Therma town, the Anthemis Hotel (T. 22750 23156 & 23377) is simple with adequate rooms, and has helpful and friendly owners. Both hotels are inexpensive.
The island’s smarter hotels are mostly in the area of Armenistìs: the Hotel Erofili Beach (T. 22750 71058-9; www.erofili.gr : upper price range) has large, comfortable, and well appointed rooms overlooking the sea front and the pool: it is a good hotel, but the breakfast is somewhat disappointing and the reception decidedly cool.
Just outside Armenistìs, on the way to Nas is the charming Hotel Daidalos (T. 22750 71390-2), looking west out to sea:
next door to it, and of equivalent standard but more old-fashioned, is the Cavos Bay Hotel (T. 22750 71381-3; www.cavosbay.com.gr ). Both of the above are in the medium price range. Those seeking real peace and quiet might explore Tzamoudakis Rooms in remote Karkinagri (T. 22750 91217 & 91327).
Ikaria Travel Guide