Kalymnos Island, Greece.
For character and tranquillity, *Villa Melina is the most congenial place to stay in Póthia (T. 22430 22682; email: info@villa-melina.com). It is a Belle Epoque, family mansion, with high-ceilinged rooms (and some newer studio rooms around the swimming pool), run by the hospitable owners in a quiet area close to the museum.
With more straightforward facilities, and a good view of the town, is the Hotel Panorama (T. 22430 23138, 22917; www. panorama-kalymnos.gr).
For beach-side accommodation in Kantouni Bay, on the west of the island, Koletti Studios are in a delightful setting (T. 22430 47922, or, out of season, 210 692.8909);
and the tiny shore-side guest-house, On the Rocks, facing Kalymnos from Telendos (T. 22430 48260, 48261; www.otr.telendos.com) is perfect for a peaceful retreat.