Kythera Island, Greece.
Rooms for rent can be found in many of the villages on the island: the hotels, however, are mainly concentrated in or near Kythera Chora and at the port of Kapsali below. Particularly peaceful and with a good and panoramic terrace for breakfast, is the Hotel Margarita just off the main street in Chora, in the 19th century house in which Valerios Staïs, the archaeologist, was born. Open all through the year. (T. 27360 31711, fax 31325, www.kythira margarita.com).
Nearby, at the entrance to the Kastro of Chora is the small Pension Nostos, with half a dozen select, simple, well-appointed rooms of great charm (T. 27360 31056, fax 31834, www.nostos-kythera.gr).