Mykonos - Around the island - South (Angelika and Lino)

South (Angelika and Lino)

In 1991, the largest Mycenaean tholos tomb in the Cyclades was found on the hill of Angelika about 1.5km south of Chora. (120m after the Ornos junction of the ring-road round Chora, on the crown of the hill to right (west). Access is through the Hotel Tharroe of Mykonos, with their permission.) The corbelled dome of the circular chamber rises directly from the ground, i.e. the ‘dome’ does not stand on a cylinder. It has an impressive diameter of c 5.5m, and is entered by a 1.8m wide dromos, spanned by a single lintel block. The dromos is curiously oriented to the south, rather than the (more customary) east. The floor of the chamber where the body was placed is cut down as if with the rectangular continuation of the dromos, creating a raised stone socle around. An exquisite necklace with papyrus flowers and shells in solid gold, three rock crystal seal-stones, and a quantity of painted pottery were found in the grave, suggesting that it was the burial for someone of considerable importance. The tomb is dated to the later part of the 15th century bc.
   Two Hellenistic constructions of particular interest lie close to one another a little further south on the south ern slopes of the island. The first is the Hellenistic ‘tower’ at Portes which marks the hill above Platis Gialos, and whose lintel is visible against the skyline to the east as the road descends to the beach (reached by taking the narrow concrete road east at the summit, just before the main road makes its final descent). Three monolithic granite blocks form the standing doorway, with the holes for the door fixtures visible. The overall dimensions are unusually small for a Hellenistic tower, however: the diameter is less than 4m. An altogether grander construction is to be seen on the hill of Lino, 300m to the east. (1.2km south of the junction of the Aghia Anna road with the Airport road. Shortly after a sharp, double-turn in the road, the base of the tower stands ahead—well camouflaged amongst the natural boulders—on a rocky eminence to the west of the road.) This is the base of a beautifully constructed, circular Hellenistic tower of the early 4th century, 11m in diameter and made of massive granite blocks, perfectly cut and interlocked. To the south are the remains of a rectangular structure of the same period, with the blocks once again cut so as to fit snugly against the natural out crops of rock. A complex of buildings such as this would suggest that it may have been a small garrison-post with barracks, although visibility would have been limited for its use as a watchtower.
   Perhaps limited visibility was no bad thing: the south coast of Mykonos is indented with the series of beautiful sandy coves which have made it famous, several of which are, by tradition, nude beaches. The bays are framed by the same oddly sculpted rocks and boulders as those out of which the ancient towers in the hinterland behind seem to grow. Looking at the landscape, it is easy to comprehend the origins of the legend that ascribes the formation of the island of Mykonos to the heap of projectiles and boulders hurled by Hercules and the Olympian gods in the battle with the Giants, and under which the off spring of Gaia lie buried.

Mykonos Island is part of the Cyclades Island Group, Greece.
Around Mykonos Island. The South, Angelika & Lino.



Mykonos Island, Greece.

By air: Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines both run three return flights daily between Athens and Mykonos, and one flight three times weekly to Thessaloniki. The craft are mostly 40-seater or smaller. The airport is 2.5km from Chora.
By boat: Mykonos is also amply served by connections from both Piraeus (on average three times daily in summer) and Rafina (between 5 and 9 times daily in summer), with frequency dropping markedly in winter. The fastest times are (an incredible) 2 hrs from Rafina and 4 hrs from Piraeus.
The town now has two separate ports and, on departure, it is important to be sure which port the ferry you need is leaving from.
There are typically an average of three connections daily to Syros and Paros, and two to Naxos , during the summer, with routes to Herakleion three times weekly. The daily caïques for Delos (except on Mondays) leave from the west mole of the old harbour.

Mykonos Travel Guide


Mykonos Island, Greece.

First, eating "Greek": the only Mykoniot fish-taverna left in Chora which has maintained its simplicity is Kounelas, where it is still possible to enjoy good seafood in a tiny walled garden. (Just off waterfront, two alleys east of the town hall).
Similarly traditional Greek fare and environment can be found at To Koutouki tou Limniou in Aghios Stephanos, north of Chora.
Some of the island"s best fresh fish is prepared by Markos" taverna at Livounia, on the east side of the Kalafáti peninsula in the east of the island.
International cuisine: for imaginative Japanese and Pacific "fusion cuisine", Nobu of Mykonos at the Belvedere Hotel in Rohari is highly prized. Casa di Giorgio (be hind the Catholic Cathedral) has a wide variety of genuine Italian dishes prepared in an Italian kitchen.
For a pleasing vantage point from which to watch the sun set, it is hard to do better than the balcony of the Veranda Bar in "Little Venice".

Mykonos Travel Guide

further reading

Mykonos Island, Greece.

Theodore Bent’s description of the ‘μοιρολογίσται’ of Mykonos (the versifying professional mourners at funerals), as well as being an invaluable piece of anthropological documentation, is one of the best chapters of his work The Cyclades, or Life among the Insular Greeks (1885), reissued 2002 by

Archaeopress, Oxford.

Mykonos Travel Guide


Mykonos Island, Greece.

Mykonos has a staggering quantity of hotels on offer, catering for every kind of taste—except perhaps for rustic simplicity. For those who want to be in the heart of Chora, Zorzis is a small ‘boutique hotel’, open year round (rare in Mykonos) with characterfully furnished rooms and friendly management (T. 22890 22167, fax 24169,
Opposite, and similar in style, is the French-owned Chez Maria (T. 22890 27565, fax 27566), which incorporates a restaurant below.
Delightful and attentive, family management and unpretentiousness has always characterised the Rhenia Hotel in Tourlos: it is set back on the hill above the new port away from noise, and 2km from the town centre (T. 22890 22300, fax 23152,
Since the 1950s the Leto Hotel has provided spacious ness and full services, in its own gardens right beside the Chora and the museum: it is best patronised outside of high season during which it can become noisy at night (T. 22890 22207, fax 24365,
Of the luxury hotels, Cavo Tagoo is the longest standing and has the most interesting architecture (T. 22890 23692, fax 24923,
Mykonos Travel Guide

practical info

Mykonos Island, Greece.

846 00 Mykonos: area 86sq. km; perimeter 89km; resident population 9260; max. altitude 373m. Port Authority: 22890 22218.
Information: Sea and Sky Travel Agency, T. 22890 28240 & 27799, fax 28287;

Mykonos Travel Guide

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