MYKONOS



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Mykonos - Mykonos Chora - The tria Pigadia area


The Tria Pigadia area

Inland to the east of Kato Myli, at the southernmost point of the main thoroughfare is the church of Aghios Giorgios: the interior is divided by arches springing from a fluted classical column, truncated and surmounted by a capital. Opposite are the minuscule chapels of Aghia Barbara and Aghios Phanourios. This area is known as Tria Pigadia, ‘three wells’, and was once the town’s crucial, and only, freshwater source.
  Beside Aghios Giorgios is the Museum of Lena’s House (open Apr–Oct daily 6–9pm, Sun 6–8pm)—understated, beautifully presented and perhaps, in the end, more instructive than the Folklore Museum in the Kastro. Lena Skorvanou died in the early 1970s: she was the unmarried daughter of a Mykoniot wood-merchant, engaged in an activity of millennial importance on Mykonos—bringing timber for boat building and roofing from the Black Sea to the wood-starved Cyclades. In a manner typical of the merchant classes at the turn of the 20th century, he studied in Paris and his son (Lena’s brother) in Alexandria— something which explains the provenance of many of the items exhibited. The museum consists of only a part of the original house, a living-room and two bedrooms above (Lena’s to left, and her parents’ to right). Most of the furniture is French, some of it English. Lena’s bed is Viennese: kept above where she slept were the wedding crown of her mother (Lena never married), and a hanging bottle of holy water, along with the icons which rep resented the religious and ancestral protection necessary to get through the night. By contrast with the wooden ceilings below, the roofs of the bedrooms were made in a traditional Cycladic fashion—woven with reeds, covered with a layer of seaweed, and bound in a ‘cement’ made with sand and crushed sea-shells which sealed it and created a terrace above. This endowed warmth in winter and conserved cool in summer. The garden and main reception room of Lena’s house are now occupied by the Aegean Maritime Museum of Mykonos next door (open Easter–Oct daily 10.30–1 & 7–9.30), which is remarkable for its collection of models of ships and ship designs, from the ancient rafts of Mesopotamia to the early steam ship. There are several very interesting reconstructions: a Bronze Age Theran ship, depicted in the frescoes from Akrotiri, complete with its captain’s palanquin; a Greek trireme—the most concentrated naval war-machine of antiquity; an 18th century felucca. A variety of archaeological finds relating to the sea are on display—grave stelai of shipwrecked mariners, and even a reconstruction of an Early Roman bilge-pump. The original lantern of the Armenistis Lighthouse (1890) from northwest Mykonos— the largest of its time in the Aegean—is exhibited in the garden outside.


Mykonos Island is part of the Cyclades Island Group, Greece.
Mykonos, the Tria Pigadia area, the Aegean Maritime Museum. Museum of Lena’s House.

 

access

Mykonos Island, Greece.

By air: Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines both run three return flights daily between Athens and Mykonos, and one flight three times weekly to Thessaloniki. The craft are mostly 40-seater or smaller. The airport is 2.5km from Chora.
By boat: Mykonos is also amply served by connections from both Piraeus (on average three times daily in summer) and Rafina (between 5 and 9 times daily in summer), with frequency dropping markedly in winter. The fastest times are (an incredible) 2 hrs from Rafina and 4 hrs from Piraeus.
The town now has two separate ports and, on departure, it is important to be sure which port the ferry you need is leaving from.
There are typically an average of three connections daily to Syros and Paros, and two to Naxos , during the summer, with routes to Herakleion three times weekly. The daily caïques for Delos (except on Mondays) leave from the west mole of the old harbour.

Mykonos Travel Guide

eating

Mykonos Island, Greece.

First, eating "Greek": the only Mykoniot fish-taverna left in Chora which has maintained its simplicity is Kounelas, where it is still possible to enjoy good seafood in a tiny walled garden. (Just off waterfront, two alleys east of the town hall).
Similarly traditional Greek fare and environment can be found at To Koutouki tou Limniou in Aghios Stephanos, north of Chora.
Some of the island"s best fresh fish is prepared by Markos" taverna at Livounia, on the east side of the Kalafáti peninsula in the east of the island.
International cuisine: for imaginative Japanese and Pacific "fusion cuisine", Nobu of Mykonos at the Belvedere Hotel in Rohari is highly prized. Casa di Giorgio (be hind the Catholic Cathedral) has a wide variety of genuine Italian dishes prepared in an Italian kitchen.
For a pleasing vantage point from which to watch the sun set, it is hard to do better than the balcony of the Veranda Bar in "Little Venice".

Mykonos Travel Guide

further reading

Mykonos Island, Greece.

Theodore Bent’s description of the ‘μοιρολογίσται’ of Mykonos (the versifying professional mourners at funerals), as well as being an invaluable piece of anthropological documentation, is one of the best chapters of his work The Cyclades, or Life among the Insular Greeks (1885), reissued 2002 by

Archaeopress, Oxford.

Mykonos Travel Guide

lodging

Mykonos Island, Greece.

Mykonos has a staggering quantity of hotels on offer, catering for every kind of taste—except perhaps for rustic simplicity. For those who want to be in the heart of Chora, Zorzis is a small ‘boutique hotel’, open year round (rare in Mykonos) with characterfully furnished rooms and friendly management (T. 22890 22167, fax 24169, www.zorzishotel.com).
Opposite, and similar in style, is the French-owned Chez Maria (T. 22890 27565, fax 27566), which incorporates a restaurant below.
Delightful and attentive, family management and unpretentiousness has always characterised the Rhenia Hotel in Tourlos: it is set back on the hill above the new port away from noise, and 2km from the town centre (T. 22890 22300, fax 23152, www.rhenia-bungalows.com).
Since the 1950s the Leto Hotel has provided spacious ness and full services, in its own gardens right beside the Chora and the museum: it is best patronised outside of high season during which it can become noisy at night (T. 22890 22207, fax 24365, www.letohotel.com).
Of the luxury hotels, Cavo Tagoo is the longest standing and has the most interesting architecture (T. 22890 23692, fax 24923, www.cavotagoo.gr).
Mykonos Travel Guide

practical info

Mykonos Island, Greece.

846 00 Mykonos: area 86sq. km; perimeter 89km; resident population 9260; max. altitude 373m. Port Authority: 22890 22218.
Information: Sea and Sky Travel Agency, T. 22890 28240 & 27799, fax 28287; www.mykonos.gr

Mykonos Travel Guide

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