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NAXOS



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Naxos - CENTRAL AND SOUTHWESTERN NAXOS - ii.Chora - potamia - epano - Kastro/tsikalario - Chalki - filoti - The Pyrgi

The ‘pyrgi’
There are at least four important fortified manors or ‘pyrgi’ still to be seen in these villages. These structures, though built with a robust four-square design and bearing crenellations and machicolations, were not primarily for defensive purposes but were emblematic of the power and status of the rich families who built them and who controlled their productive lands and serfs from these grand rural homes. The design of all of them is similar in principle: a ground floor given over to vaulted undercrofts for the storage of the produce of their lands, often furnished with cisterns as well; a piano nobile above—often accessible by a wooden drawbridge—with a salone running the width of the building with rooms off to the side; an upper area for sleeping rooms; and a flat crenellated roof for defence, if necessary, and for the collection of water which was stored in the cisterns below. The Barozzi-Grazia Tower in the centre of Chalki­ (northeast of the Portothronos) was built by Bernardo Barozzi in 1742, though the Eagle of Byzantium and the arms above the door are those of the Frangopoulos family who bought the house in the later part of the same century. The Markopolitis Tower in Akadi­mi, and the Kalavros Tower in Kerami­, built around 1770, both belonged to the Politis family who were prominent in the struggles of the Greek community, first against the Italians, then against the Turks. The oldest ‘pyrgos’ in this immediate area is the Barozzi Tower in Filoti (20km), built in 1650. The Barozzi, who married into the Crispi family, owned the majority of the land in this area.



Naxos Island is part of the Cyclades Island Group, Greece.


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access

Naxos Island, Greece.

By boat:
Naxos has on average two or three connections per day throughout the year to Piraeus, and one or two each day to Rafina; the services all take cars, and the journey time typically varies between 4.25 hours (Hellenic Seaways Highspeed & NEL lines) and 5.5 hours (Blue Star Ferries). Nearly all services stop at Paros en route.
There are daily connections south to Ios and Santorini in the summer, either by ferry or Flying Dolphin: this reduces considerably in the winter to twice weekly.
The Express Skopelitis leaves Naxos at 3 pm every day for the Lesser Cyclades Islands, weather permitting.
By air:
Olympic Air currently runs one daily return flight from Athens to Naxos , with small craft only (c. 30 seats). The airport is 3.5km from Chora.

Naxos Travel Guide

eating

Naxos Island, Greece.

Of the myriad tavernas on the harbour front at Chora, the freshest fish and seafood is to be had at the minuscule, "To Steki tou Valetta", where excellent octopus and wine are served.
Of quite different character—elegant and with some carefully designed dishes—is Elli"s restaurant in the Grotta area of Chora.
For beachside eating, just outside Chora, Paradiso at Aghia Anna has good food, served at tables under trees on the sands.
One of the best of all fish restaurants on the island outside Chora is Michalakos at Moutsouna. For its setting by springs in the village of Ano Potamiá, the taverna Pigi is a joy—very popular with locals on Sundays.
Katsalis, under the plane trees in Filoti, is also to be recommended.
And for making a picnic from the best Naxiot wine and produce, the Tziblakis cheese shop on the main Papavasileiou Street in Chora is still excellent—even if in recent years the shop has become more self-conscious than before.

Naxos Travel Guide

further reading

Naxos Island, Greece.

Theodore Bent, The Cyclades (1885), reissued 2002 by Archaeopress, Oxford in the ‘3rd Guides’ series. For an excellent documentation of Byzantine Naxos , Giorgios Mastoro poulos, Νάξος, το ἄλλο κάλλος/ Naxos : Byzantine Monuments, Athens, 1996, cannot be bettered.

Naxos Travel Guide

lodging

Naxos Island, Greece.

For its size and importance, Naxos is poorly provided with good accommodations, outside the resort hotels.
The Chateau Zevgoli in the heart of the bourgo is the most charming place in Naxos, although its name promises more than it delivers and the rooms are small and over decorated (T. 22850 25201, fax 25200). The owner, Mrs Despina Kitini, also possesses a couple of spacious studio rooms up in the Kastro, which represent a good alternative: she can be found at the useful ‘Naxos Information Center’ which she manages, opposite the main ferry quay.
Karabatsi Studios, at Aghia Anna offer friendly, family hospitality of utter simplicity, at a short distance from the Chora (T. 22850 26440, www. dinaNaxos.com).
Of the resort hotels, Lianos Village at Aghios Prokopios, is comfort able and unpretentious (T. 22850 26366, fax 26362, www.lianosvillage.com).

Naxos Travel Guide

practical info

Naxos Island, Greece.

843 00 02
Naxos : area 389 sq.km
perimeter 133km
resident population 17,357
max. altitude 999m.
Port Authority: T. 22850 22300 & 23939.
Tourist information: Zas Travel (T. 22850 23330, fax 23419)

Naxos Travel Guide

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