NAXOS



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Naxos - CENTRAL AND SOUTHWESTERN NAXOS - iii.Chora - Galanado - Sangri - Apaliros - Aghiasos - Aghios Sozon - Aghiasos

Aghiasós
South of Lathrina and of Apaliros Castle, the valley is flat and opens out to east and west; it is run through by seasonal torrents, the vegetation is sparse and interspersed with outcrops of rock. From Aghiasos (24km), two 13th century painted churches can be visited in the low hills to the east: the Panaghia at Archato (N), reached by back tracking 4km to the northeast—a church of curious form which has developed by additions over time, and which conserves paintings, dated to 1285 from an inscription with the names of artist and patrons; and the remarkable church of the Panaghia Giallous (13) which lies substantially inland from the shore to the south, at 4.5km from Aghiasos. This is a small, rural, ‘mausoleum-type’ church. What is interesting here is the quite distinct personality of the artist, who was working in the penultimate decade of the 13th century. One of the several clearly visible in scriptions (which are all votive entreaties of individuals, or of husbands and wives) is dated with the year 6796 since creation, i.e. 1288/89. The artist’s colours are rich and the faces he depicts are sensitive and subdued, yet with a graceful and quite idiosyncratic elongation. The faces of the Baptist in the conch and of Christ on the south wall are particularly worthy of note: they are without any rigidity. The church was originally a small, domed square: the ex tension to the west is of later date. The coastal track south along the coast to the tip of the island, ends at the tiny Byzantine church of Aghios Sozon Kalantou (30km), built into the rocks in gratitude for the safe rescue of sailors from a shipwreck.


Naxos Island is part of the Cyclades Island Group, Greece.


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access

Naxos Island, Greece.

By boat:
Naxos has on average two or three connections per day throughout the year to Piraeus, and one or two each day to Rafina; the services all take cars, and the journey time typically varies between 4.25 hours (Hellenic Seaways Highspeed & NEL lines) and 5.5 hours (Blue Star Ferries). Nearly all services stop at Paros en route.
There are daily connections south to Ios and Santorini in the summer, either by ferry or Flying Dolphin: this reduces considerably in the winter to twice weekly.
The Express Skopelitis leaves Naxos at 3 pm every day for the Lesser Cyclades Islands, weather permitting.
By air:
Olympic Air currently runs one daily return flight from Athens to Naxos , with small craft only (c. 30 seats). The airport is 3.5km from Chora.

Naxos Travel Guide

eating

Naxos Island, Greece.

Of the myriad tavernas on the harbour front at Chora, the freshest fish and seafood is to be had at the minuscule, "To Steki tou Valetta", where excellent octopus and wine are served.
Of quite different character—elegant and with some carefully designed dishes—is Elli"s restaurant in the Grotta area of Chora.
For beachside eating, just outside Chora, Paradiso at Aghia Anna has good food, served at tables under trees on the sands.
One of the best of all fish restaurants on the island outside Chora is Michalakos at Moutsouna. For its setting by springs in the village of Ano Potamiá, the taverna Pigi is a joy—very popular with locals on Sundays.
Katsalis, under the plane trees in Filoti, is also to be recommended.
And for making a picnic from the best Naxiot wine and produce, the Tziblakis cheese shop on the main Papavasileiou Street in Chora is still excellent—even if in recent years the shop has become more self-conscious than before.

Naxos Travel Guide

further reading

Naxos Island, Greece.

Theodore Bent, The Cyclades (1885), reissued 2002 by Archaeopress, Oxford in the ‘3rd Guides’ series. For an excellent documentation of Byzantine Naxos , Giorgios Mastoro poulos, Νάξος, το ἄλλο κάλλος/ Naxos : Byzantine Monuments, Athens, 1996, cannot be bettered.

Naxos Travel Guide

lodging

Naxos Island, Greece.

For its size and importance, Naxos is poorly provided with good accommodations, outside the resort hotels.
The Chateau Zevgoli in the heart of the bourgo is the most charming place in Naxos, although its name promises more than it delivers and the rooms are small and over decorated (T. 22850 25201, fax 25200). The owner, Mrs Despina Kitini, also possesses a couple of spacious studio rooms up in the Kastro, which represent a good alternative: she can be found at the useful ‘Naxos Information Center’ which she manages, opposite the main ferry quay.
Karabatsi Studios, at Aghia Anna offer friendly, family hospitality of utter simplicity, at a short distance from the Chora (T. 22850 26440, www. dinaNaxos.com).
Of the resort hotels, Lianos Village at Aghios Prokopios, is comfort able and unpretentious (T. 22850 26366, fax 26362, www.lianosvillage.com).

Naxos Travel Guide

practical info

Naxos Island, Greece.

843 00 02
Naxos : area 389 sq.km
perimeter 133km
resident population 17,357
max. altitude 999m.
Port Authority: T. 22850 22300 & 23939.
Tourist information: Zas Travel (T. 22850 23330, fax 23419)

Naxos Travel Guide

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