NAXOS



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Naxos - CENTRAL AND SOUTHWESTERN NAXOS - iii.Chora - Galanado - Sangri - Apaliros - Aghiasos - Aghios Sozon - Sangri

Around Sangrí
The road continues, through undulating country with good views of the mountains, to the scattered communities of Kato Sangri­ (10.5km) and Ano Sangri­ (12km), near to which are two important churches:

*Aghios Artemios (11) (1.5km east of Kato Sangri; visible in the valley from the Chalki­/Sangri road, c 1.5km north of the Bazaios Tower and 3km south of Chalki. Opening to be arranged with Ephorate.) An ancient single-aisled domed church of moving simplicity which conserves bands of aniconic decoration in the vault of the sanctuary dating from the 9th century. Some elements of the decoration imitate marble revetment, others have the appearance of decorative ceramic tiles. In the border of the area of spiral volutes is an inscription in red: ‘Remem ber, O Lord, thy servant, Ikonomos, whose name thou know est. Amen.’ It should be noted that everything is hand-drawn, with no stencils or mechanical aids.

Aghios Nikolaos (12) (signed, south from the eastern end of Ano Sangri­: open Mon–Fri 10–2.30 in summer. Otherwise opening to be arranged with Ephorate.) This has well-preserved areas of painting dating from 1270 in the interior, according to the inscription on the arch of the conch. Striking use is made of azurite and ?cinnebar: in places, finer details have been added {tipid="6220" position="below"}a secco{/tip with a pasty, lead-white. In two of the pendentives of the dome, the Evangelists are represented by a complex motif of tetramorphs—the sacred symbols of the Gospel writers. In the middle of the north wall, lower layers of two earlier paint campaigns can be seen, depicting the Virgin and Child; the details reveal them to have been of considerable sophistication. Fine scenes of the Baptism—in which a merman symbolizes the River Jordan—and of the Nativity decorate the sanctuary vault.


Naxos Island is part of the Cyclades Island Group, Greece.


access

Naxos Island, Greece.

By boat:
Naxos has on average two or three connections per day throughout the year to Piraeus, and one or two each day to Rafina; the services all take cars, and the journey time typically varies between 4.25 hours (Hellenic Seaways Highspeed & NEL lines) and 5.5 hours (Blue Star Ferries). Nearly all services stop at Paros en route.
There are daily connections south to Ios and Santorini in the summer, either by ferry or Flying Dolphin: this reduces considerably in the winter to twice weekly.
The Express Skopelitis leaves Naxos at 3 pm every day for the Lesser Cyclades Islands, weather permitting.
By air:
Olympic Air currently runs one daily return flight from Athens to Naxos , with small craft only (c. 30 seats). The airport is 3.5km from Chora.

Naxos Travel Guide

eating

Naxos Island, Greece.

Of the myriad tavernas on the harbour front at Chora, the freshest fish and seafood is to be had at the minuscule, "To Steki tou Valetta", where excellent octopus and wine are served.
Of quite different character—elegant and with some carefully designed dishes—is Elli"s restaurant in the Grotta area of Chora.
For beachside eating, just outside Chora, Paradiso at Aghia Anna has good food, served at tables under trees on the sands.
One of the best of all fish restaurants on the island outside Chora is Michalakos at Moutsouna. For its setting by springs in the village of Ano Potamiá, the taverna Pigi is a joy—very popular with locals on Sundays.
Katsalis, under the plane trees in Filoti, is also to be recommended.
And for making a picnic from the best Naxiot wine and produce, the Tziblakis cheese shop on the main Papavasileiou Street in Chora is still excellent—even if in recent years the shop has become more self-conscious than before.

Naxos Travel Guide

further reading

Naxos Island, Greece.

Theodore Bent, The Cyclades (1885), reissued 2002 by Archaeopress, Oxford in the ‘3rd Guides’ series. For an excellent documentation of Byzantine Naxos , Giorgios Mastoro poulos, Νάξος, το ἄλλο κάλλος/ Naxos : Byzantine Monuments, Athens, 1996, cannot be bettered.

Naxos Travel Guide

lodging

Naxos Island, Greece.

For its size and importance, Naxos is poorly provided with good accommodations, outside the resort hotels.
The Chateau Zevgoli in the heart of the bourgo is the most charming place in Naxos, although its name promises more than it delivers and the rooms are small and over decorated (T. 22850 25201, fax 25200). The owner, Mrs Despina Kitini, also possesses a couple of spacious studio rooms up in the Kastro, which represent a good alternative: she can be found at the useful ‘Naxos Information Center’ which she manages, opposite the main ferry quay.
Karabatsi Studios, at Aghia Anna offer friendly, family hospitality of utter simplicity, at a short distance from the Chora (T. 22850 26440, www. dinaNaxos.com).
Of the resort hotels, Lianos Village at Aghios Prokopios, is comfort able and unpretentious (T. 22850 26366, fax 26362, www.lianosvillage.com).

Naxos Travel Guide

practical info

Naxos Island, Greece.

843 00 02
Naxos : area 389 sq.km
perimeter 133km
resident population 17,357
max. altitude 999m.
Port Authority: T. 22850 22300 & 23939.
Tourist information: Zas Travel (T. 22850 23330, fax 23419)

Naxos Travel Guide

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