You are here: Home ￫ click here to EXPLORE Nisyros ￫ around the Island ￫ eastern route from Mandraki to Emboreios & Nikia ￫ Nikia
Nikia’s greatest gem is the tiny, 15th century church of Aghia Triada- (100m downhill south of the village, directly below the cemetery, tucked under some stairs to the right of the pathway. Unlocked). It is a single-vaulted chapel entirely covered with 15th century paintings of consider able stylistic sophistication, though in poor condition in places. Scenes of the lives of Mary and of Jesus cover the vault. The technical quality of the depiction of faces (v. the angels beside Christ as he holds the shrouded soul of Mary) and of drapery and pose (v. the seated Mary above the west door) is remarkably fine for such a remote and humble building. The work here is a beautiful example of its kind in the smaller islands, and the church is a profoundly peaceful place to visit.
Below Nikia the road winds downhill, amongst cultivated terraces with many neatly constructed stone sheds and storehouses, to the deserted harbour of Avlaki, once also a centre for thermal bathing. Warm water still rises weakly at the edge of the harbour, and the thermal buildings and changing rooms stand abandoned behind. Just above the harbour is the church of Aghios Panteleimon, which has some interesting ancient spolia—a Byzantine door-frame and pagan altar with bucrania.
Nisyros Island is part of the Dodecanese Island Group, Greece.
The only service from Nisyros to Kardamaina on Kos to run regularly, weather permitting, throughout the year is the local M/V Aghios Constantinos (dep. Nisyros 7.00 am; dep. Kardamaina 14.30; 60 min.). From May to October, M/V Panaghia Spiliani plies the Kos (Main Port)-Nisyros route, 4-5 times weekly (dep. Nisyros 7.30; dep. Kos 15.00; 90 min.)
Both have capacity for about two vehicles. GA car ferries call at Nisyros 3 times (summer) or 2 times (winter) weekly on the main Dodecanese route, with stops at nearly all the islands between Rhodes and Patmos, and connections with the same frequency to Piraeus. The Tilos Catamaran, Sea Star, provides fast connections with Tilos and Rhodes 2 times weekly from June to mid October.
Kleanthis, by the waterfront in Mandraki, is both welcoming and serves good seafood and many homemade vegetable dishes and salads.
Hidden and sheltered from the wind is the Taverna Nisyros in a narrow street (Od. Iannides) perpendicular to the shoreline in Mandraki, with unexceptional food but a pleasing atmosphere.
The panoramic Restaurant Andriotis, just at the entrance to Nikià, provides the most ambitious variety of food on the island, including well-prepared local goat dishes.
Lodging is not plentiful on the island and is mostly in or around Mandraki.
The Hotel Porphiris (T.22420 31376, fax 31176), open May to end of September, though simple, is the island’s most comfortable and friendly solution providing breakfast and a pleasant sea-water swimming pool.
For atmosphere and a taste of times gone by, the Thermal Baths at Loutra have basic and inexpensive rooms (no private facilities) from mid June to end of September (T.22420 31011).
Out of season, there is very little choice: the gloomy Hotel Charitos (T.22420 31322) at least has heating.