PAROS



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Paros - North of Parikia

North of Parikia

On the panoramic summit of a rocky spur, 3.5km by road north of Parikia, are the remains of the sanctuary of Apollo and Artemis, known also just as the ‘Delion’— built on a site which shows evidence of cult since prehistoric times. The eminence has unimpeded views in every direction: west to Siphnos, east to Naxos , and—crucially for cultic reasons—north to Delos . The peribolos of the area is traceable: it is square in outline, with the temple situated in the southwest corner, oriented on an east/ west axis, and with the altar visible to the east. A short distance to the south is a separate structure, which possessed marble benches and a portico, which appears to have been an ancillary building, and could even have been a hestiatorion or feasting room. The temple possesses a deep recess beneath the floor-level of the interior, which probably functioned as the treasury for votive gifts; against the west wall would have stood the cult-statue— the colossal figure of Artemis, whose form has been re assembled from countless fragments, and stands in the portico of the Archaeological Museum. The fragmentariness of the ruins and the small size of the broken pieces lying around suggest that the temple and statue suffered deliberate destruction. The choice of materials is interesting: the construction is partly in granite and partly in differing qualities of local marble. What has survived of the threshold is in very finely cut, purest Parian marble. The masonry would indicate a date in the early 5th century bc. There is an extraordinarily dense scatter of potsherds, with fragments of painted pottery visible in places, and even minute pieces of necklace and bronze still to be seen on the surface.
   If instead of branching for the Delion, you follow the road from Livadia all the way to the west, at 2.5km from Parikia a left turn leads down to Krios, where set back from the shore is a curious building dating probably from the Late Roman or early Christian period. It stands to an impressive height of 6m, is over 20m in length, and is characterised by a hemicycle at its east end which is the width (8.5m) of the whole building. There are no columns, aisles, windows or stone furniture which would suggest it were a place of worship, even though it is oriented precisely on an east/west axis. At about 3m from the ground, a ledge of Parian marble divides the height of the hemicycle: these marble pieces have been identified as seats taken from the 4th century bc bouleuterion of Paros. This use of spolia and the method of construction point to a date in the Late Roman/Early Christian period. The proximity to a protected shore and the large windowless space is similar to the so called tholoi on Kalymnos, Agathonisi and Pharmakonisi in the Dodecanese, which are thought to have functioned as magazines and storage places. The ‘apse’ here may simply be a way of countering the thrust of the hillside into which the building is deeply cut.
   Beyond Krios, the road finishes at the point of the headland at the church of Aghios Phokas (5km). The west side of this barren and rocky promontory is perforated with large caves and grottos; the one furthest south is dubbed the ‘Cave of Archilochus’.


Travel Guide to Paros & Greece

access

Paros Island, the Cyclades.
By air: Olympic Air operates two 35-minute flights between Athens and Paros daily. The airport is 10.5km from Parikiá.
By boat: There are generally two daily car-ferry connections (4hrs 30mins) to Paros from Piraeus (most regularly with Blue Star Ferries) in the summer, with frequency drop ping in the winter. This is augmented in the summer months (late June– late Sept), by up to four high-speed services daily (minimum 3hrs journey), divided equally between the ports of Piraeus and Rafina for Athens. These services provide an average of three onward connections daily to Naxos , Ios and Santorini.
Paros Travel Guide

eating

Paros Island, the Cyclades.
Paros, -Levantis, on Agora Street in Parikiá, is one of the best places to eat in the Cyclades, for food that is refined and yet still Greek: the setting is simple and unpretentious, the cuisine sophisticated and delicious, and the service attentive and pleasant. More expensive and with a refined menu which offers nonetheless some excellent dishes, is Daphne in Gravari Street. Amongst the myriad eateries around the three harbours of Náousa, the easternmost taverna on the north shore, Glafkos, has excellent seafood and welcoming service. Le Sud is also good for more var ied and sophisticated cuisine. In Léfkes, "I Pezoula tis Lichoudias", is tiny, and undoubtedly a little artificial, but some of the home-made Greek dishes are nonetheless traditional and of local inspiration.
Paros Travel Guide

further reading

Paros Island, the Cyclades.
Thomas Hope’s Anastasius, or Memoirs of a Greek, first published in 1819, is partly based on Nicholas Mavrogenis (see p. 34–35) of Paros and his world and times. The book caused a sensation when it was first published in London; Byron privately admitted that he wished he had been its author. A paperback edition was reissued in 2001, by Elibron Classics. Paros: History, Monuments etc. by Yannos Kourayos (Athens 2004) is an exemplary guide to the island’s antiquities—clear, authoritative and to the point. For the remarkable figure of the Marquis de Nointel and his Christmas mass in the Cave of Antiparos, see: Henri Omont, Relation de la visite du Marquis de Nointel à la grotte d’Antiparos (1673), Bulletin de géographie historique et descriptive, 1892 (4), pp. 4–33, and Albert Vandal, L’Odyssée d’un ambassadeur. Les voyages du Marquis deNointel (1670–1680), Paris, 1900. Theodore Bent, The Cyclades, or Life among the Insular Greeks (1885), reis sued 2002 by Archaeopress, Oxford in the ‘3rd Guides’ series, contains his descriptions of making the earliest excavations of prehistoric Cycladic remains on Antiparos.

Paros Travel Guide

lodging

Paros Island, the Cyclades.
Paros has no shortage of smart places to say: but for simplicity and unpretentious comfort, the following can be recommended. The intimate, family-run Hotel Dina in the heart of Parikiá, could not be more central, and is inexpensive, comfortable and quiet (T. 22840 21325, fax 23525, www.hoteldina.com). On the edge of Náousa, Yades Studios provide tasteful accommodation with help ful management (T./fax 22840 51072, www.yades. gr). Beautifully appointed, and with full facilities, is the excellent Hotel Petres (T. 22840 52467, fax 52759, www.petres.gr; open Easter– mid-Oct). The hotel is set back in the hinterland to the south of Náousa, but with beautiful views north over Plastiras Bay.
Paros Travel Guide

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