PATMOS



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Patmos - Chora and the south of the island - the south of the island

The south of the island
A kilometre and a half to the southwest of Chora is the convent of the Evangelismos (open daily, 9–11.30). Built around a 17th century hermitage, the surrounding complex dates from 1937. The principal interest lies in the magnificent setting of the convent, dominating the valley to the south, and in the two buildings in its southwest corner—the original hermitage chapel of St Luke, and the church of the Annunciation, recently painted with impeccable murals by one of the convent’s resident nuns. Immediately to the left on entering, is an exquisite 16th century icon of the Annunciation.
  
To the south of Chora the landscape is dramatic, declaring its volcanic origin in the scatter of eroded igneous outcrops and boulders at its surface. The island narrows to a thin isthmus marked by the church of the Stavros. Ahead rises the bulk of Mount Prasovouno (237m): to the east is the protected bay of Diakofti, where there is an active boatyard, while to the west, in the bay of Stavros are salt-pans. The road ends here, but by following the track further south, down the west coast from Stavros, you climb up and then descend into Patmos’s purest sand beach—Psili­ Ammos. There is the shade of tamarisk trees, and a taverna which operates in the summer months.
   From Stavros, a route (part track, part road) leads north up the east shore towards Groi­kos. The long shallow sweep of the bays of Diakofti and Petra is broken by the conspicuous, eroded form of the Kalikatsou(‘cormorant’) Rock, which is attached to the shore by a flat spit of land and has all the appearance of a Cappadocian outcrop, now that its steep sides and summit have been carved with caves, steps and deep channels for water collection, by generations of worshippers and hermits. No proper study has been made of this remarkable rock; all that can be said is that—as in Cappadocia—its natural hollows have been used by anchorites in the early Middle Ages as inaccessible dwellings, and that the steps and plat form cut on and below the summit probably relate to an open-air (?)sanctuary of Aphrodite, which is attested in literary sources. Sherds of clay vessels and stone tools dating from the early 3rd millennium bc have been found, indicating—as would be expected with such a numinous, natural phenomenon—a very ancient human presence. The road continues to Groi­kos, the island’s principal resort, set in a sheltered position looking out onto the natural amphitheatre of the bay—the hills grouped around the small island of Tragoni­si, with distant views of Leros beyond. Two and a half kilometres further north, the road reaches Skala, through its quiet, southeastern suburb of ‘Konsolato’, named after the handful of foreign consulates that opened here in the shipping heyday of the 19th century.


Patmos Island is part of the Dodecanese Island Group, Greece.


access

Patmos Island, Greece.

By boat: Patmos has no airport but is well connected by sea to Piraeus, Kos and Rhodes , by Blue Star Ferries (twice weekly) and GA Ferries (five times weekly); the latter also calls at Kalymnos and Leros en route between Patmos and Rhodes .
In the summer season there are daily services by catamaran (Dodecanese Express) on the Dodecanese route between Rhodes , Kos, Kalymnos, Leros, Lipsi and Patmos;
and four times weekly the car ferry, F/B Nisos Kalymnos, runs this same route up from Kos and ex tends it onwards via Arki and Agathonisi, to Pythagoreion on Samos .
Flying Dolphin hydrofoils ply the same route daily in summer only, including twice-weekly connections to Ikaria and Fourni. Caïques run local services to the small er islands, including Maráthi, in high season.

 

Patmos Travel Guide

eating

Patmos Island, Greece.

Chiliomodi, 100m inland of the harbour, to the left of the road to Chora, has excellent seafood and fish, prepared simply and with no frills, in plain taverna atmosphere: the wine is good, and the urchins, small fish and shrimp are the best in Skala.
Also in Skala, Grigoris, on the waterfront, looks unpromising, but is nonetheless reliable, especially for meat. Lambi, on the beach  of that name, provides only what is available that day and so can be variable, but the place is quiet and the setting beautiful; Stefanos, often just referred to as ‘Meloï’, with a terrace overlooking Meloï beach, is more consistent and lively and has carefully prepared home cooking. 

Patmos Travel Guide

further reading

Patmos Island, Greece.

The full text, translated and surprisingly readable, of the Rule written by Hosios Christódoulos in 1091 (edited by John Thomas and Angela Constantinides Hero), which contains his ‘autobiographi cal’ introduction, can be consulted in Dumbarton Oaks: Byzantine Monastic Foundation Documents (published 2000); or at www.doaks.org/ typikaPDF/typ033.pdf

Patmos Travel Guide

lodging

Patmos Island, Greece.

Patmos offers a remarkably wide range of hospitality from basic lodgings to overly pretentious hotels: a good halfway house, combining comfort and style is the Petra Hotel in Groíkos Bay (T. 22470 34020, 32567, www.petrahotel-patmos.com )
brand new studio-apartments, overlooking the main bay, can be taken at Irini Traditional Homes (T. 22470 32826, 32556, www.traditional.gr).
For old-fashioned practicality, the Hotel Skala (T. 22470 31343, 31747), set back in its own garden, is reliable and convenient for ferries, though the breakfast leaves a little to be desired.
In the peace and quiet of Old Chora, there are mostly only rooms available; a couple of the nicest and simplest are those of Giorgia Triandáfilou (T. 22470 31963) and Marouso Kouna (T. 22470 31026).

Patmos Travel Guide

practical info

Patmos Island, Greece.

85 500 Patmos: area 34sq km
perimeter 72km
resident population 2997
max. altitude 272m.
Port Authorities: T. 22470 31231.
Travel and information: Apollon Travel, T. 22470 31324, 31819 ; Astoria Travel, T. 22470 31205, 31975, www.astoriatravel.com

Patmos Travel Guide

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