RHODES



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Rhodes - Southern Rhodes - Pilonas, Iardos and Askipieio

West of the main junction at Kalathos (42km from Rhodes ) just north of Lindos, the road climbs for 2km to Pilonas; at the summit of the rise is the 15th century church of Aghios Giorgios whose north interior wall has paintings in deteriorating condition. A right turn off the main road is signed to the Mycenaean cemetery of Aspropilia which was excavated between 1993–96. This consists of six tombs, two with side-chambers cut into the soft sandstone rock, dating from the late Mycenaean period—14th-12th centuries bc. Each is entered by a dromos or entrance gallery on the same, almost due-south, axis. Finds made here include pottery—much of it imported from the Argolid in the Peloponnese—and glass paste beads of Egyptian manufacture. The village of Lardos (46.5km), which has given its name to the mottled grey marble quarried in the area, is an important junction at the crossing of a seasonal river and is the main market-town of a large hinterland to the north. A fortress which substantially predates the Knights’ presence on Rhodes guards it from the hills to the southwest. It was this fortress and its estates in the valley below that the Genoese adventurer, Vignolo de’ Vignoli, who already had a foothold on the island, was to receive for his personal use as part of his reward for his military support in helping the Knights take Rhodes from the Byzantine Empire in 1306–9. The coastal road south of the village passes between the shore and low cliffs which are visibly shaped and perforated by the marble quarries both of Antiquity and of more recent times. These are the last limestone outcrops encountered as the road heads south; beyond, the land scape changes, sweeping down to the sea in folds of softer, formless sandstone. At 55km (13km from the Kalathos junction), a turning inland leads 3.5km to Asklipiei­o, similarly guarded by a conspicuous fortress of the Hospitaller period. The village’s treasure is the 11th century church of the Dormition, or ‘Koimisis tis Theotokou’, in the central square, whose magnificent -painted interior is comparable with the church of the Panaghia in Lindos and with Moni Tharri for the completeness and beauty of its decoration (often locked outside times of liturgies; the custodian in the house directly to the south keeps the key). The church, which dates from 1060, has been cleaned externally and the masonry re-pointed: the discontinuity in the stonework on the west façade shows from out side how two aisles to north and south have been added in the 18th century onto the central nave of the original cruciform church: this original structure may also have evolved in two phases, beginning as a Greek cross plan, and then being modified into a Latin cross plan by addition to the west arm. This becomes clearer once inside the long, low interior, which is paved with a chochlakia mosaic floor and covered on all sides with wall-paintings of the late 16th century. The whole range of Scripture is here, from Genesis to the Revelation, disposed around the walls with the meticulous ‘universal’ logic typical of Byzantine church designs. The Pantocrator in the celestial circle of the dome; the Evangelists, as transmitters of divine wisdom in the pendentives; the Virgin and Child in the conch of the apse; scenes relating to mortality in the transepts—the Apocalypse and the Virgin’s Dormition to the south; a dramatically large and solemn Archangel Michael clasping a shrouded human soul in his hand, and Herod’s Massacre of the Innocents to the north; then, along the vault of the nave, the Fall from Grace related in the scenes from Genesis, mirrored by the Redemption through the Life of Christ. All this swirls above us, while— standing at our level, are the reassuring intercessors—St John the Baptist and St George in their own niches to either side of the congregational area, and the other saints ranged around. Most splendidly dressed of all are SS. Constantine and Helen in the north arm. As we exit to the world outside, images of the Last Judgement around the door in the west wall act as a salutary warning. A perfect whole—more memorable for its completeness as a decorative cycle than for the particular quality of the painting. A small Ecclesiastical Museum and, next to it, a Folklore Museum are housed in the adjacent buildings to the south. From the vantage point of the small early 15th century castle above, the plan and development of the church below is clear. The fortress itself is considerably ruined, but its two cylindrical towers survive and a very deep, irregularly shaped cistern in the centre of the compound still conserves its impermeable lining. A number of small churches can be seen dotting the landscape all around the village. The most interesting of these is Aghios Giorgios Labra which lies below the village to the south, a little above the river course. In a niche in the north wall is a mural of the Virgin and Child: the quality of the simple modelling and definition of the face and the blessing hand of the Virgin is noteworthy. The altar of the chapel is a re-used antique capital.


Rhodes Island is part of the Dodecanese Island Group, Greece.


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access

Rhodes Island, Greece.

By air: With a total of 6–7 daily flights from Athens to Rhodes operated by both Olympic Air and Aegean Airways, Rhodes is easily accessible at all times of year. Its airport is also the hub for local flights within the area to Kastellorizo, Karpathos and Kasos (almost daily), and to Kos, Leros and Astypalaia (three times weekly). There are also daily connections direct to Thessaloniki and to Heraklion (Crete). The airport is 15km southwest of the centre of Rhodes town (€15 by taxi).
By boat: The port of Rhodes is also the principal hub for the Dodecanese Islands, with daily connections to all the principal islands, though the frequency of connections to the lesser islands varies considerably according to season (see entries for individual islands). There are year-round, direct connections by car-ferry to Piraeus (c. 16 hours) every day; and connections to eastern Crete twice weekly. In the holiday season, there are also daily connections (by private carriers) to Marmaris in Turkey. Since the port is large and has several harbours, it is important to ascertain from which part of it a ferry will leave.
The neighbouring island of Chalki is served twice weekly from Rhodes town, but there is a daily service from Kameiros Skala (2 hours). The GNTO office in the New Town (corner of Makariou and Papagou Streets, T. 22410 44335) provides helpful sheets with weekly boat departures, museum opening times, a price-list for taxis and schedules of bus times and fares for the whole island. Its web-site is: www.ando.gr/eot

Rhodes Travel Guide

eating

Rhodes Island, Greece.

Rhodes offers some of the best and most varied eating possibilities in the Aegean— although in the city itself, the visitor will need to explore outside the Old Town to sample the best Greek food. Within the walls of the Old Town, unimaginative and often overpriced tourist-fare prevails; we would suggest only: the -Marco Polo (see lodging, above); Dinoris Restaurant (upper medium price) in a tiny alley across from the entrance to the Archaeological Museum— an elegant and traditional taverna of long standing, one of the few in the Old Town regularly frequented by locals; Photis Restaurant (expensive; open all year) in Menekléous Street—also an elegant and well-established fish restaurant, where the undoubted high quality and presentation of its dishes compensates for the hauteur of the reception and service. At lunchtime, -Indigo (medium price), inside the Nea Agorá market building (at no.105/6) beside Mandraki harbour, offers delicious, finely prepared dishes from the cuisine of Greek Asia Minor. Further afield (but without question worth the short taxi-ride) in Zephyros, southeast of the city centre, is the -Paragadi fish restaurant (medium expensive; corner of Klaude Pepper & Australias Streets: reservation recommended, T. 22410 37775) with an exceptional quality of service and of seafood and fish dishes, prepared in the best and simplest manner. This is one of the best fish restaurants in the Dodecanese. Nearby, open all year, and usually packed with locals, is To Steki tou Cheila (inexpensive) at the southern end of Kodringtonou St., on the corner of Hadjiangelou and Dendrinou Sts: the symiakó (tiny shrimps) and the wine are both fresh and delicious.
Around the island: Mavrikos in Lindos (expensive; reservations, T. 22440 31232) is a fine and justly famous restaurant with pleasing setting, serving many homemade products. The excellent and panoramic -To Limeri tou Listí ("The robber"s den") in Prophilía (T. 22440 61578) in the central south of the island, certainly merits the long journey and represents one of the best places to eat on the island: it has imaginatively and care fully prepared traditional dishes of the highest standard, e.g. a light and unforgettable imam bayaldı. Nearby, Petrino in the picturesque plateia of Váti, is a good country taverna with fresh and unaffected cuisine.

Rhodes Travel Guide

further reading

Rhodes Island, Greece.

Cecil Torr, Rhodes in Ancient Times and Rhodes in Modern Times (first published by CUP in 1885, both now re-issued by Archaeopress ‘3rd guides’, Oxford); Lawrence Durrell, Reflections on a Marine Venus (Faber & Faber, London, 1953); H.J.A Sire, The Knights of Malta (Yale, London & New Haven, 1994); Vassilis Colonas, Italian Architecture in the Dodecanese Islands, 1912–1943 (Olkos Press, Athens, 2002); Elias Kollias, The Mediaeval City of Rhodes etc.,(Ministry of Culture, Athens, 1998).

Rhodes Travel Guide

lodging

Rhodes Island, Greece.

The most beautiful and characterful place to stay in the Old Town of Rhodes is the -Hotel Marco Polo (T./fax 22410 25562, www. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.; open May–late Oct) at 42 Aghiou Phanaríou Street, not far from where it joins (the main) Sokrátous Street at the Mehmet Agha Mosque. With architecturally fine rooms of great individuality, and the thoughtful and friendly service that goes with private ownership, this is a memorable place either to stay or just to dine on its imaginative, traditional food in the peace and quiet of a mediaeval walled-garden. Elegant, modern luxury at a higher price, in an enviable location just off the Street of the Knights, is offered by the newly opened -Avalon Boutique Hotel (T./ fax 22410 31438/31439, www.avalonRhodes .gr), which is open all year round. The Old Town also has many small and characterful pensions: worthy of mention are, The Apollo Guesthouse (T. 22410 32003, www.apollo-touristhouse.com) and Hotel Andreas (T. 22410 34156, fax 74285, www.hotelandreas.com), at 28c and 28d Omírou Street respec tively (contiguous, but under separate management) not far from the St John/Koski nou Gate, and overlooking the ancient church of Aghia Kyriaki. Both are relatively inexpensive, and inhabit interesting buildings; the rooms are comfortable, but small. At Ippodámou Street, 61, is the delightful S. Nikolis Hotel (T. 22410 34561, fax 32034, www.s-nikolis.gr). These last three close between late October and the week before Easter. In the winter season, the New Town has a number of hotels which are open year-round and offer more conventional services and convenience. Comfort able and satisfactory, without being too big or expensive, is the A-class Hotel Mediterranean (T. 22410 24661, fax 22828, www.mediterranean. gr), opposite the Casino at 35 Kos Street; most rooms have good sea-views. Exceptional value year-round is represented by the Esperia Hotel (T. 22410 23941–4) at 7 Griva Street which is warm, pleasant and strictly functional: the pool-side rooms are quietest.

Rhodes Travel Guide

practical info

Rhodes Island, Greece.

851 00-09 Rhodes : area 1,401sq. km; perimeter 220km; resident population 115,334; max. altitude 1,216m. Port Authority: 22410 22220, 28888, 28666. Travel and information: www.travel-Rhodes .com

Rhodes Travel Guide

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