Samos - The north of the island, Mt. Ambelos and Karlovasi - general

(For distances, the main junction SW of Vathy centre = 0.0 km)

The north coast of the island is a landscape of pine, plane and cypress, with the two massifs of Mount Ambelos, also called ‘Karvounis’, (1,153m) and Mount Kerketeus (1,434m) always visible above, and the stony, dark-watered shore below. The coast road alternates in stretches between sea and cliffs, and the mouths of deep ravines, where plane-trees give welcome shade, and in spring nightingales and running water are heard. All along the coastal hillsides, are to be found the traditional, four square stone houses, with low, hipped roofs and wrought iron balconies: many are in ruinous condition.
   At Kedros, 4km west along the coast road from the road junction southwest of Vathi, are the remains of an Early Christian cruciform baptismal pool of the late 4th or 5th century ad (300m down the right (north) turn after the EKO filling station), beside the modern church of Aghia Paraskevi­. Little else remains of what must have been a basilica and baptistery complex, sited—as so often in this period—close to the sea. The quality of the few fragments of carved marble lying nearby suggests that the surrounding buildings were well endowed with sophisticated decoration. Beyond Kedros, the coastline has many attractive, though often windy, beaches, especially those west of Kokkari—Lemonakia and Tsamadou. Kok kari itself (7.5km) is a popular resort, which has grown up around two rocky coastal outcrops which overlook a small plain of rich land behind, used for the cultivation of the onions for which the village is famous.

Samos Island is part of the Northern Aegean Island Group, Greece.


Samos Island, Greece.

By air: Domestic flights are frequent from Athens – four to five times daily with Olympic Air and twice a day in summer with Aegean Airlines.
There also direct flights by charter from destinations outside Greece.
By boat: Sea access to Samos is also plentiful, but a little confusing because it is split between three separate ports: Karlóvasi and Vathy, on the north coast, for the larger ferries plying the northern and western routes to Piraeus, Chios, Lesbos, Ikaria, Thessaloniki etc;
and Pythagóreio, on the south coast, for the Dodecanese and southern routes,
i.e. the F/B Nisos Kalymnos (4 days per week)
and hydrofoils (daily in summer) to Patmos, Lipsi, Leros, Kalymnos, Kos, and on to Rhodes , with the Nisos Kalymnos stopping at Agathonisi and Arki in addition, before calling at Patmos.
The summer hydrofoil service to Fourni and Ikaria (4 times weekly) also leaves from Pythagóreio. Crossings to Turkey (Kus¸adasi) run daily from Vathy, during the summer season only (Easter to mid October); thereafter more infrequently.

Samos Travel Guide


Samos Island, Greece.

In Vathy, Christos (two blocks in from the water-front, and north of the main square) serves Asia Minor specialties, interesting salads, and good, fragrant wine.
The village of Vourliotes has several tavernas offering good mountain food in its picturesque plateia: less contrived, and more popular with islanders, is Pera Vrysi, at the entrance to the village. On the shore below, at Avlákia, the Mezedopoleío "Doña Rosa" has a pleasing touch of eccentricity, but nonetheless prepares excellent Greek dishes with localredients and good presentation.
Further west at Palaio Karlóvasi, the Oinomageireío "Dryousa", in the plateia where the paved road ends, is family run, providing fresh, home cooking.
The last true tavernas in Pythagóreio closed some time ago; the best remaining eatery there, with a pleasant view from its position at the beginning of the harbour mole, is Varka. For sunset views, however, few can match Balkoni tou Aigaiou at the south end of Spatherei;
while the taverna at Koutsi, up and west from Pyrgos, though not remarkable for food, is an unforgettable and cool refuge on a hot day, beside a spring below plane trees in the hills of central Samos .
Pure comb honey of high quality can be found at Melissa – a small supply-shop, a few metres up the main street of Pythagóreio from the harbour.

Samos Travel Guide

further reading

Samos Island, Greece.

Graham Shipley, A History of Samos 800-188 BC (Oxford University Press, 1987); Hermann Kienast, The Aqueduct of Eupalinos (Greek Ministry of Culture, Athens, 2005).

Samos Travel Guide

practical info

Samos Island, Greece.

831 00 Samos & 832 00 (Karlóvasi): area 477 sq. km; perimeter 163 km; resident population 33,999; maximum altitude 1,434 m. Port Authority: T. 22730 27890, 27318 (Vathy); T. 22730 61225 (Pythagóreio); T. 22730 32343, 30888 (Karlóvasi). Travel and in formation: ; By Ship Travel, T. 22730 25065 (Vathy), 61061 (Pythagoreio), 92341 (Kok- kari), 37100 (Marathókambos) & 35252 (Karlóvasi).
Samos Travel Guide

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